All around this monumental frieze, a museographical area provides the visitor with an overview of Cap Blanc life and art. Objects, pictures, and a fresco tell the story of Prehistoric sculptors throughout Europe.

The limestone rock shelter of Cap Blanc, near Laussel, northeast of Les Eyzies in France’s Dordogne region, is well known to the world of prehistory as the site of one of the finest sculptured friezes to survive the last Ice Age, the first to be unearthed, and currently the best to remain open to the public. Its figures of horses, bison and deer, albeit found in a much damaged condition at the time of their discovery by Dr. Gaston Lalanne of Bordeaux in 1909, remain a moving and powerful ensemble. Lalanne dug here and unearthed a fine collection of typical Magdalenian – about 15 000 years old – stone, bone and antler tools, including harpoons, and a number of large stone implements that had clearly been used to produce the parietal bas-relief and haut-relief sculptures that his crude excavations brought to light on the back wall. (Ed: Parietal – term used to describe artwork done on cave walls or large blocks of stone, as opposed to portable art, such as most of the venuses)

In 1911, further digging in front of the shelter for the purpose of erecting a small construction to enclose and protect the frieze and for lowering the floor level to make the art more visible to visitors led to the discovery of a human skull. Work was suspended and prehistorians Louis Capitan and Denis Peyrony were asked to extract the skeleton, a task that took them three days.

The Cap Blanc skeleton is of tremendous importance – not only a relatively intact inhumation from the late Ice Age but also one of the very few found in close proximity to parietal art of the period.

Indeed, the body’s location directly in front of the central part of the shelter’s sculptured frieze can really only be compared with that of the double paleolithic inhumation of an adult woman buried with her arm around a 17-year-old male dwarf in front of the engraved block at the Riparo di Romito, Italy. It was suggested by the excavators that the Cap Blanc burial may even be that of the original sculptor (or one of them), and this is unquestionably a possibility; certainly the location of the inhumation indicates a person with a strong link to the site.

Conflicting Reports

In France, the excavation of the skeleton in 1911 led to a brief publication that discussed primarily the two skeletons unearthed at La Ferrassie by the same excavators. They gave few details about the Cap Blanc find, stating only that the skeleton lay at the bottom of the archaeological deposit, 2. 3 meters from the frieze and 60 centimeters below the hooves of the central horse. It had been buried amid stones, with three fairly big stones placed above it, one of them on its head and others at its feet. It had been placed on its left side, arms and legs flexed, occupying a space of only 3 feet by 2 feet (1 meter by 60 centimeters), immediately below a Magdalenian hearth.

It is curious that early reports of the Cap Blanc skeleton claimed that it was of a male aged about 25, whereas examination by physical anthropologists eventually established that it was of a young adult female.

A recent examination of the field Museum’s archive on the case made it possible to reconstruct much of the story. The earliest document in the archive is a letter, dated January 24, 1911, to Monsieur J. Grimaud, the site’s owner, from the president of the Société des Antiquaires de 1′Ouest in Poitiers, acknowledging receipt of a report on the rock shelters of Laussel (i.e. Cap Blanc) together with photos and five boxes, one containing reindeer teeth and bones and the other four containing flint tools. A letter, dated August 5, 1911, from Paul Leon, at the Ministère de l’Instruction Publique et des Beaux-Arts in Paris, thanks M. Grimaud for reporting the discovery of the skeleton and states that he will ask Peyrony to take appropriate measures to preserve it. Peyrony himself (the Membre Correspondant de la Commission des Monuments Historiques aux Eyzies) writes on August 8 that the Minister has asked him to verify the authenticity of the Laussel skeleton, make all necessary scientific observations, and supervise the excavation. He therefore went to the site that very morning and examined the find in the presence of Grimaud’s guard, Veyret. The remains were indeed authentic.

Only two days later, Grimaud received a letter from Dr. Capitan, professor at the Collège de France, dated August 10, which is a key document for the site. The letter contains a sketch of the location of the bones and reports that they are 2. 3 metres from the big horse and around 70 centimetres below its muzzle. They occupy a kind of pit, 50 centimetres deep, and the skull was unfortunately broken by a blow from a workman’s pickaxe.

Capitan insists, rightly, that the excavation be carried out by experienced and qualified people and suggests himself and Peyrony for the task, as they have just unearthed the two older skeletons from La Ferrassie. To make matters clear, he proposes that the excavators produce the scientific report, while any finds would belong to Grimaud. In the meantime, the skeleton has been covered with stones and planks for its protection.

A new letter from Capitan, dated August 28, reports that the skeleton has been removed in its entirety in a number of blocks of earth, and it will now be possible to excavate the bones properly and carefully, once Peyrony has transported them to Paris by rail, probably in September or October. For the present, these blocks are in Peyrony’s care, and he will dry them out slowly. Most important is a brief sentence, stating that “All we found with the skeleton was a shapeless fragment. probably of ivory.” This is indeed a small ivory point measuring 0. 6 by 3 by 0. 4inches (16 by 74 by 10 millimetres), which is kept at the Field Museum, having been sold along with the skeleton.

It is described as “several thin laminae glued together along with bits of matrix and partially reconstructed or plastered over with some sort of filling material.” According to its original display case label, this point was “found over the abdominal cavity of this individual” and “the weapon may have been the cause of death. ”

This is certainly the theory that was promoted by Henry Field, the eventual acquirer of the skeleton for the museum. He claimed in a 1927 article that the skeleton died a natural death, yet also noted: A small ivory harpoon-point found lying just above the abdomen may give a possible clue to the cause of his death. This weapon may have caused blood poisoning which resulted in death. It has been suggested tentatively that the young man [sic] felt death approaching and returned to the rock-shelter, as he desired to die before the masterpiece he had helped to create. . . It is not plausible that some one who had nothing to do with the sculpture should have been allowed to desecrate the sanctuary unless he had assisted in the work or, at any rate, was directly connected with it.

In Field’s memoirs, his speculations were even more romantic: “Why had she been buried beneath the frieze of horses? Was she killed by her lover’s ivory lance point? Was it by another Cro-Magnon girl? Was her brother avenging the family’s honor? Was she killed in battle? Why was she buried in the sanctuary? Was she the daughter of the sculptor-high priest? There was no real evidence, except that death probably resulted from blood poisoning.”

No source is given for the theory that the ivory point was the cause of death or the claim that it was found above the abdomen – perhaps this was merely M. Grimaud’s opinion – but nevertheless it is baffling that such a potentially important object was completely omitted from the published report by Capitan and Peyrony. Indeed, were it not for this casual mention in Capitan’s letter, there would be absolutely no guarantee THE CAP BLANC LADY that the point had any connection with the Cap Blanc skeleton. Yet ivory is not common in Magdalenian contexts in southwest France, let alone ivory points that may be a cause of death. In this connection, it is worth noting that the only clear evidence we have of violence inflicted on humans during the last Ice Age consists of a probable flint arrowhead embedded in the pelvis of an adult woman from San Teodoro Cave, Sicily, and an arrowhead in the vertebra of a child from the Grotte des Enfants at Balzi Rossi, Italy.

A letter to Grimaud from Peyrony, dated August 31, 1911, notes that”we have been able to lift the whole thing in a pretty good state. The whole skeleton will be able to be reconstructed and will be a very good study piece. I have conserved it in Les Eyzies, as Mr Capitan was not able to take it. I will carry it to Paris next October. ” However, it is clear that Capitan had major problems in getting the skeleton dealt with in Paris. Letters from him complain of the difficulty in finding someone qualified and with sufficient time available to prepare the bones for casting and display. It is also interesting to learn that there were plans afoot to have a cast made and placed in the shelter; in fact, for some reason this was never done, and instead a miscellaneous collection of casts of other bones was put together for this purpose. In a letter dated July 29, 1913, Capitan tells Grimaud that an artist will be sent to carry out this assignment. A letter from Grimaud in 1924 notes that “in accordance with the Ministere des Beaux Arts, I have had a modern skeleton set in place at the foot of the sculptures, in place of the real skeleton. ”

Nevertheless, the original skeleton was eventually extracted from its sediments by J. Papoint of the Laboratoire de Paleontologie at the Musee National d’Histoire Naturelle under the direction of Marcellin Boule(director of the museum) and of Capitan. A letter from Papoint, dated February 27, 1915, records the state of the bones:

You will find the skull in the wooden box. It is in two pieces. It was impossible for me to reconstruct it because of the deformation caused by fossilisation. I left in the same block the upper and lower jaws as well as the seven cervical vertebrae which I extracted as well as I could. There are two upper incisors that I put to one side, since I could not fit them in their sockets. These two skull pieces are very fragile and need to be unpacked with care. The dorsal and lumbar vertebrae are all present. The ribs are incomplete. All the limb bones are in good condition. A few fragments of the shoulder-blades and pelvis bones are missing. This is due to the fragility of certain parts of these bones. A few phalanges are missing from the hands and feet.
The Sale of the Bones
By early 1915, the Cap Blanc skeleton had been restored to its owner. Monsieur Grimaud. It then disappeared from view until the start of his attempt to sell it to an American museum nine years later. According to Henry Field, “in 1916 M. Grimaud, having made no money out of the discoveries on his property, decided to reclaim his anticipated profit, and during the stress of war conditions was able to ship the skeleton to New York.” In his later memoirs, he added that “the skeleton was said to have been smuggled out of France during World War I in a coffin as an American soldier with the necessary papers forged.” Yet documentation available at the Field Museum provides no real clue as to why Grimaud decided to send it to America, or why he apparently waited a further eight years before trying to sell it. His initial choice was the American Museum of Natural History in New York, but, to cut a long story short, his protracted negotiations, via American lawyers in Paris, eventually came to nothing, in part because of his huge asking price ($12, 000, equivalent to about $250, 000today).

Finally, after steadily dropping his price, he sold it to Chicago’s Field Museum for a much lower amount. According to Field’s memoirs, a representative of the museum was sent to Monsieur Grimaud “with twenty-five thousand-franc bills (the equivalent of a thousand dollars) in one hand and a receipt ready for signature in the other. ” He continues, “Some days later a cable came from Paris saying that the Cap-Blanc skeleton was ours. I hurried to New York and in the basement of the Museum of Natural History packed her very carefully in cotton wool and carried her in a suitcase to a compartment on the Twentieth Century [train]. We had a very uneventful night together. ”

With the benefit of hindsight, Field’s memoirs claim that, as he laid out the bones in Chicago, “the pelvic girdle was definitely feminine” – yet, as noted above, his article of 1927 still saw the skeleton as a young man! The skeleton in its new case was first displayed prominently just inside the museum’s main entrance.

It was introduced to the media as “the only prehistoric skeleton in the United States”, and so became front-page news. The first day, 22 000 visitors came to see for themselves. At noon, the crowd was so dense around her that the captain of the guard. . . notified the director that two guards must be placed there to keep the people moving and orderly. . . . Nothing like this had happened before in the Field Museum. . . . This was the first exhibit in the new building to capture the public and press imagination. ”

In 1932, the skeleton was withdrawn from exhibition so that the skull could be restored by T. Ito under the direction of Gerhardt von Bonin of the Department of Anatomy at the University of Illinois. According to von Bonin:

When the skeleton arrived at the Museum, it was in an almost perfectly clean condition, only a few bones being still embedded in a matrix of somewhat gritty, loam-like matter. The long bones were almost all perfectly preserved. The pelvic and the shoulder girdle were somewhat damaged, particularly in the pubic region and the scapula. The vertebral column appeared to be complete, the vertebrae were for the most part still held together by adhering soil. Twelve left and ten right ribs were found, and a rather decayed square piece of bone, apparently all that was left from the manubrium sterni. The cervical column was firmly attached to the lower jaw and a part of the upper jaw.

The skull was broken into a number of fragments. The bones are of a brownish colour, darker in some spots and lighter in others. They are firm enough to be handled conveniently, yet somewhat brittle. In some spots, dental cement had been put on the bones in order to prevent them from crumbling.

Von Bonin’s conclusion, after a full anatomical study, was that these were the remains of a young woman, about 5 feet, 1 inch (156 centimeters) tall and about 20 years of age.

In an exhibition case next to the skeleton, the museum installed a life-size diorama of the Cap Blanc rock shelter, modeled by Frederick Blaschke. As the only complete European paleolithic skeleton on exhibition in an American museum, the Cap Blanc woman was seen by several million visitors in her first decade in Chicago alone. But the story does have a happy ending of sorts.

Thanks to the generosity of a private sponsor, a complete cast of the Cap Blanc lady – and of her ivory point  was made, and on July 14, 2001, the cast was installed in its rightful place beneath the central frieze in France.

 The cast of the Cap Blanc lady, restored to her original resting place in front of the center of the carved frieze on July 14, 2001.

Also in 1863, Marquis Paul de Vibraye, an archaeologist who also started searching Laugerie Basse, and the finder (1864) of the now famous “Immodest Venus of Laugerie Basse”, the first feminine statuette to be found in France came to Les Eyzies. In 1865, Elie Massénat succeeded the first 3 researchers and launched a 20-year long excavation campaign with Léonard Delpeyrat, an inhabitant of the neighbouring hamlet.

All excavated pieces were published in 1900.

The beginning of the XX century was marked by the threatening arrival from Bern of the Swiss Otto Hauser, all his discoveries were directly sent abroad to the detriment of Science.
Fortunately, in 1913, Laugerie Basse was sold to Achille Le Bel, an eminent chemist, and Jean Maury became head of the excavation team: at last Laugerie Basse was saved from this dangerous foreign hold.
Most of the work done during the following 3 years related to the Marseilles shelter. Jean Maury exploited the site and created a museum, of which he became the curator.
He also decided to stop the excavation campaign to preserve the site for future generations.

In the 80s, Alain Roussot, the curator of the Museum of Aquitaine, started clearing the section, which enabled the detailed recording and study of its stratigraphy: the first 4 layers described were subdivided into 27 different layers. One part of layer 15 was then carbon dated at 13,850 years.

Part of the Marseilles shelter still remains to be searched.

The site has been classified as a Historical Monument.

Magdalenians were Homosapiens or Cro-Magnon men offering minor differences with today’s men. Some of them have been carefully buried, as for example in Laugerie Basse.

The last major drop in temperatures in the climatic history of the Earth, also called last “ice era”, took place during the Superior Paleolithic period, and during the coldest periods the temperature could -on a yearly average- be 4 to 5°c colder than today. Such a difference has a marked influence on both the flora and the fauna.

The Vézère valley used to host animal species that are typical of cold climates and that have now disappeared, such as the mammoth or the hairy rhino, and also species that still live today under the polar circle, such as the musk ox, the polar fox or the reindeer. Reindeers were the most hunted of all during Magdalenian times in Périgord. Excavation campaigns in Laugerie Basse have revealed that 90% of all bones discovered were reindeer bones.

Dead animals were fully utilized: flesh and fat were consumed, the skin was used for clothing or building huts, bones and antlers were turned into needles, harpoons, assegais or works of art.

The Magdalenians were not only great hunters, but also fishermen fishing trouts, salmons, pikes, and creating for all these activities quite sophisticated weapons such as assegais, propellers, etc.

The two sites are 150 metres from one another.

The Prehistoric Shelter of Laugerie Basse : : Free or guided visits in French or in English.
Guide books are available in German, Dutch, Italian or Spanish.
The tour lasts 45 minutes.
The shelter is accessible to disabled persons.
Dogs are allowed.
Open from easter to october

Low season: from 10:00 a.m. to 06:00 p.m.
High season: from 09:30 a.m. to 07:00 p.m. (july – august)

Its feudal castle already existed in the beginning of the Middle Ages and until the 10th century; it became by marriage (11th century) one possession of the Count of Perigord, and then became an important fortified town. The last counts: Archambaud V and VI who had been unfaithful to the King were thus deprived of all properties by the Paris Parliament. Montignac then became one property of Louis d’Orléans, brother of French King Charles VI. Charles VI was taken prisoner during the battle of Azincourt and decided to sell the town to Jean de Blois in order to pay his ransom. By marriage, the castle and town then became a property of the D’Albret family until 1603, when French King Henry IV gave them to François d’Hautefort Lord of Thenon. The castle has been many times dismantled during wars, and it was destroyed in 1825. Only one tower and its infrastructure bear witness of its former glory.

The town used to be surrounded by a wall with three doors, of which one led to a wood bridge across the river Vézère (today facing the Pègerie street). This bridge was burnt in 1580 by protestants, then it has been rebuilt, and was carried away by the 1620 flood. A new bridge was built between 1766 and 1777 to replace the ferry that had been used for 150 years.
This charming town includes two different areas located on both sides of the Vézère river: on the right bank, the feudal town and its medieval narrow streets with their 14th, 15th and 16th century architecture: houses on piles, half-timbered houses, wash houses and springs, the typical yellow stones of which beautifully reflect the sun. On the left bank, the suburb with the convent and priory reminds us that Montignac used to be a harbour, a place of commerce and crafts during the Ancien Régime period. 

Hospitality remains the number one tradition of its inhabitants (3,101 today). In Montignac many celebrities were born, such has Eugène LE ROY, writer and author of «Jacquou Le Croquant», Joseph Joubert the moralist, or Pierre Lachambaudie, writer of tales…

Montignac, is also a place for gastronomy: the Lascaux cake is wonderful, and when you’re here it is as if you could smell the delicate aroma of King Henri IV’ “Poule au Pot”. When you come to Montignac, our tables d’hôtes and restaurants lead you to discover the numerous delicious recipes of our Perigord. But this is not the end of it!

Montignac and its area offer varied hiking paths, leisure activities and sites to be visited, of which, do not miss Lascaux II, the Regourdou, the Thot-Espace CroMagnon, the castles of Losse, and Sauveboeuf, theSaint-Amand de Coly Abbey, the shelters of La Roque Saint Christophe, the Paleontology museum and the Dinosaurs’ Park!

Most of its present buildings date from this period, together with its troglodytic forts in the cliff-face (which can be visited) and vestiges of the former summer palaces of the Bishops of Sarlat. The Renaissance period saw the construction of some beautiful homes, such as the Manoir de Tarde, the manor-house of the Tarde family, which dominates the heart of the village to this day.
 
River traffic became increasingly important, with a very busy flow of cargo-carrying.
“gabares” (the Dordogne’s traditional flat-bottomed boats), as well as abundant commercial fishing, which continued right up to the beginning of the 20th century.
The village’s situation turns it virtually into a large natural solarium, and this has made possible the creation of extraordinary “exotic gardens”, alongside the church, halfway up the cliff, with luxuriant sub-tropical and Mediterranean plants.
You will find the warmest of welcomes from La Roque-Gageac and its inhabitants, known as the “Laroquois”, as well as wonderful gastronomic experiences in a region famed for its fine food.

The cave was discovered on 12 September 1940 by four teenagers, Marcel Ravidat, Jacques Marsal, Georges Agnel, and Simon Coencas, as well as Ravidat’s dog, Robot. Public access was made easier after World War II. By 1955, the carbon dioxide produced by 1,200 visitors per day had visibly damaged the paintings. The cave was closed to the public in 1963 in order to preserve the art. After the cave was closed, the paintings were restored to their original state, and are now monitored on a daily basis. Rooms in the cave include The Great Hall of the Bulls, the Lateral Passage, the Shaft of the Dead Man, the Chamber of Engravings, the Painted Gallery, and the Chamber of Felines.

Lascaux II, a replica of two of the cave halls – the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery – was opened in 1983, 200 meters from the original. Reproductions of other Lascaux artwork can be seen at the Centre of Prehistoric Art at Le Thot, France.

The cave contains nearly 2,000 figures. Many are too faint to discern, while others have deteriorated. Over 900 can be identified as animals, and 605 of these have been precisely identified. There are also many geometric figures. Of the animals, horses predominate, with 364 images. There are 90 paintings of stags. Also represented are cattle and bison, each representing 4-5% of the images. A smattering of other images include seven felines, a bird, a bear, a rhinoceros, and a human. Among the most famous images are four huge, black bulls or aurochs in the Hall of the Bulls. There are no images of reindeer, even though that was the principal source of food for the artists.

The four black bulls are the dominant figures among the 36 animals represented in the Hall of the Bulls. One of the bulls is 17 feet long — the largest animal discovered so far in cave art. The bulls appear to be in motion. The most famous section of this cave is the great hall of the bulls, where there are bulls, horses, and stags.

A painting referred to as “The Crossed Bison” and found in the chamber called the Nave is often held as an example of the skill of the Paleolithic cave painters. The crossed hind legs show the ability to use perspective in a manner that wasn’t seen again until the 15th century.

Founded more than 2,000 years ago, Périgueux, préfecture or capital city of the Dordogne, is a gracious blend of ancient and modern.

The history of the city of Périgueux began when four Celtic tribes merged to become the Petrucores. They settled on the hills overlooking the river (l’Isle) until they were overpowered by the Romans.
The Gallo‑Roman remains show how magnificent the town would have been in the 1st and 2nd centuries, the Romans having built in the valley Vesunna, an imposing city (between 15 and 20000 inhabitants), which, in the 3rd century, was enclosed by a defensive surrounding wall.
In the 4th century, Vesunna which was but a small town was named after its people “Civitas Petrocoriorum”. The town was no longer prosperous during the Dark Ages. In the 9th century, it withstood the attacks of the Normans several times thanks to its thick defensive surrounding wall.
From the 10th century on, the birth of another town gave new impetus to the valley. As a matter of fact, a chapel and a monastery were built outside the walls were the tomb of the apostle of the Périgord, whose name was Saint-Front, had been erected and which attracted a lot of pilgrims.

Merchants, artisans who wanted to get rich traded with the clerics and travellers and settled down nearby. This population gave birth to the “Bourg du Puy Saint-Front”. In the 13th century, the new town expanded and was surrounded by a wall in a U-shape, a 1.6 km long with 28 towers and 12 gates.
In 1240, in the reign of Saint-Louis, the City and the “Bourg” met and formed one city called Périgueux. For centuries, Périgueux, protected by its defensive wall, remained unchanged. But from the 18th century on, the city began developing. Beyond the wall a modern city appeared and in 1790 it became the “préfecture” of the “département de la Dordogne”.
In the 19th century, the number of inhabitants increased a lot and the city spread along the river Isle as it used to be in the 2nd century. But it is only when the rail went through Périgueux in 1856 that the city really expanded (5700 inhabitants in 1801, 13000 inhabitants in 1850, 31300 in 1890).

The main shopping precinct is a warren of cobbled alleys lined with boutiques, summer buskers and magnificent Renaissance houses, perhaps the most spectacularly ornate being the Maison du Pâtissier on the corner of the Place Saint-Louis. This pedestrian area, with its shady squares and café terraces, is a marvellous venue for open air events like the regular summer night markets, the international mime festival, Mimos, or the free evening jazz concerts, Macadam Jazz, in July and August, as well as more traditional events such as the marché au gras (fattened duck and goose products) during the winter months.

The 18th-century – now administrative – part of the city around the Place Tourny is largely built in white stone, and the saltiest events here are the frequent pétanque (local bowls) tournaments which occupy the elderly – and a large part of precious parking space on the Tourny carpark.
Modern architecture includes the splendid new Archives, opposite the Tour Mataguerre, the Bourse du Travail and the greenhouse-like Lycée Jay-de-Beaufort, successfully adjoining the beautiful Renaissance ruins of the Château Barrière. Near here are the Roman Jardins des Arènes, the entrances to the arena a gloomy reminder of gladiators’ torments. Now it is a landscaped park, a shady haven from the streets, with a children’s paddling pool and playground.

• Atelier Musee des Tisserands et de la Charentaise
  Contained within the Castle of Varaignes, this working weaving museum and the museum of the Bandiat – Tardoire valleys offers a glimpse of local life in the 19th century. Located at Varaignes.Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Ateliers Musee
  A mineral and gem stone museum found at the foot of the Castelnaud Castle. Located in Vezac.
  Tel: 05 53 28 35 78
• Chateau de Beynac et Cazenac
  The Beynac and Cazenac Castle occupies a dominant position on the rocky cliffs overlooking the Dordogne river. Reconstructed by Lord Beynac it’s architecture dates from the 13th century.
  Tel: 05 53 29 50 40
• Chateau de Biron
  The Biron Castle dates from the 12th century. It was one of the 4 Perigord baronies and owned by the Gontaut-Biron family for 8 centuries. Located in Biron near Monpazier.
  Tel: 05 53 63 13 39
• Chateau de Bourdeilles
  Features a fortress from the 13th – 15th centuries. Offers an interesting collection of cupboards, carpets, wardrobes from the 16th and 17th centuries. Open throughout the year. Located near Brantome.
  Tel: 05 53 03 73 36
• Chateau de Bruzac
  The ruins of the Bruzac Castle can be found between st Pierre de Cole and St Jean
  Tel: 05 53 03 70 74
• Chateau de Castelnaud
  This reconstructed castle overlooks the Dordogne and faces the Chateau Marqueyssac. Built in the 12th century the Castle experienced British rule from 1259 -1273. See website for more details (in French).
  Tel: 05 53 31 30 00
  
• Chateau de Chabans
  The Chabans Castle has been owned by some of the most prominent families of Dordogne. The castle dates back to the 15th century. It played a role in the Resistance movement when Jacques Chaban-Delmas took his “nom de guerre” from the castle.
  Tel: 05 53 51 70 60
• Chateau de Duras
  Castle dated from the middle age offers an architecture mixing middle-age and the 18th century. Located in Duras, Lot et Garonne (47).
  Tel: 05 53 83 77 32
• Chateau de Fenelon
  At Ste. Mondain between Sarlat and Soillac (24). An opportunity to visit a furnished Chateaux with it’s antique furniture and historical architecture. Pets are not permitted.
  Tel: 05 53 29 81 45 Fax: 05 53 29 88 99
• Chateau de Fratteau
  The Fratteau Castle dominates domain of the new prison. Built in the 12th and 17th century it has preserved chimneys from the 15th and 16th century. Now also home to potters. Located at the exit of Neuvic sur l’Isle.
  Tel: 05 53 81 11 02
• Chateau de Hautefort
  A classical castle built in the 9th century on a rocky spur. It once belonged to the viscounts of Limoges and features the Long Tower, The Palm Tower and The Prison Tower. Located in Hautefort. See website for more details.
  Tel: 05 53 50 51 23
• Chateau de Jumilhac le Grand
  The castle was originally built in the 13th century and used to act as a line of defence during many incursions. Well known for its unique roofs that were built around the 1600’s. Located at Jumilhac Le Grand.
  Tel: 05 53 52 42 97
• Chateau de L’Herm
  The Herm Castle was built at the end of the 15th century but was abandoned. Today it is going through a period of restauration. See website for details. Located at Rouffignac Saint Cernin de Reilhac.
  Tel: 05 53 05 46 61
• Chateau de Lanquis
  A combination of architectural styles from palatial renaissance to a medieval fort created this elegant chateau. Well know for its chimneys. Open all year except from 15 January to 15 February.
  Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Mareuil
  The Mareuil Castle formed one of the four baronies of Perigord. Owned by the Talleyrand family, it comprised an effective defensive system. A visit to the castle takes one back to the 100 year war and is an excellent tribute to Napoleon. At Mareuil.
  Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Chateau de Monbazillac
  This 26th century chateau is home to a museum dedicated to wine-making, arts and local traditions, 17th century perigord furniture and protestanism. The 4 ha parc is open to the public. Open throughout the year. Call for times.
  Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Montfort
  The Montfort castle has been razed to the ground 4 times. Once in 1254 by Simon of Montfort, once during the 100 year war, once under Louis the 11th and finally under Henry the 4th. Restauration work has been underway since the 19th century.
  Tel: 05 53 28 57 80
• Chateau de Neuvic
  The Neuvic Castle was built in 1520 along the banks of the Isle. The architecture shows the transiton from Medieval Time to the Renaissance. Located at Neuvic sur l’Isle.
  Tel: 05 53 80 86 65
• Chateau de Puyferrat
  The Puyferrat Castle was built in the 16th century and features a totally covered walkway that offers a panoramic view onto the neighbouring countryside. A chapel that hosts the family vault was built in 1825. Located near St Astier.
  Tel: 05 53 07 86 26
• Chateau de Puyguilhem
  The Puyguilhem Castle was built during the First Renaissance and is a fine example of a Francoise 1st castle. Located near the village of Villars.
• Chateau de Puymartin
  The Puymartin Castle is be found between Sarlat and Les Eyzies. Occupied by the English in 1358 the castle has managed to preserve its furniture, carpets, paintings and other works for over 5 centuries. Tel: 05 53 59 29 97
• Chateau de Sanxet
  Located 3km west of Monbazillac, they offer a prestige car museum. They also rent rooms for receptions.
  Tel: 05 53 58 37 46
• Chateau de Sauveboeuf
  16th Century castle, classified as a national monument. Displays a Louis the 18th style. Located in Aubas near Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 51 89 46
• Chateau des Bernadiers
  Built on the side of a rocky slope around a high tower with views dominating Nizonne. This castle was no stranger to the 100 year war. The counts d’Aydie increased the castle and built terraces. Located at Champeaux et la Chapelle Pommier.
  Tel: 05 53 60 38 59
• Chateau des Bories
  Constructed on the banks of a river, the Bories Castle is an example of pure classical Perigourdian architecture. The castle dates from the 15th century. Located at Antonne et Trigonant near Perigueux. Tel: 05 53 06 00 01
• Chateau des Milandes
  At Castlenaud-la-Chapelle. A French chateau located in the heart of the Dordogne countryside with an exhibition relating to the life of Josephine Baker. There is also wildlife to discover on the castle grounds. 
  Tel: 05 53 59 31 21 Fax: 05 53 29 17 33
• Chateau et Jardins de Losse
  At Thonac (24). An opportunity to discover this 15th century castle and gardens of Losse.Take a tour around the moat and renaissance hall, which exhibit fine 16th & 17th century tapestries.
  Tel: 05 53 50 80 08 Fax: 05 53 50 80 08
• Chateau l’Eveque
  Located on the D939 north of Perigueux. The Bishops Castle was where Saint Vincent de Paul was ordained priest in the 1600’s.
  Tel: 05 53 04 66 84
• Chateau Saint Michel de Montaigne
  The Montaigne Castle dates back to the 15th century. This is where Saint Michael wrote his famous essays from. Located at Saint Michel de Montaigne.
  Tel: 05 53 58 63 69 Fax: 05 53 58 63 93
• Chateau Varaignes
  It’s facade boasts a mix of Medieval and Renaissance styles from the 13th and 16th century. The village bought the castle in 1965 and won an award for the restoration of the castel. Located in Varaignes.
  Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Cloiture des Recollets
  The House of Wine on Quai Salvette in Bergerac. This 17th century “Cloiture” exhibits the historical link between Bergerac wine and the history of Bergerac. Open June to September.
  Tel: 05 53 63 57 55
• Eco-musee de la Noix
  Walnut farm and museum located in the heart of the Perigord noir region. Documentary film in English shown. There is also a shop selling the local farm produce from walnut cakes to walnut wine.
  Tel: 05 53 59 69 63 Fax: 05 53 28 59 34
• Ecomusee de la Truffe
  Contains plenty of information regarding truffles. Located at Sorges.
  Tel: 05 53 05 90 11
• Institute du Tabac
  A tobacco research institute that has an extensive collection of different types of tobacco products. The institute opens its doors to the public in the summer. Located at Domaine de la Tour on route de Sainte-Alvére in Bergerac.
  Tel: 05 53 63 66 00
• Le Musee Costi
  A collection of works by the Greek sculptor Constantin Papachristopolous. Exhibited in a 12th century crypt in the Saint Jacques presbytery in Bergerac. Ask at the Mayor’s office for more details.
  Tel: 05 53 74 66 66.
• Le Musee du Perigord
  On Cours Tourny, Perigueux. An interesting presentation of fine arts and french archeology. There is also a zoological section. 
  Tel: 05 53 06 40 70 Fax: 05 53 06 40 71
• Le Musee du Thot
  The Thot Museum comprises an animal park and an exhibition centre. In the park one can see species of animal that closely resemble those that historically could be found there. Located at Thonac.
  Tel: 05 53 50 70 44
• Musee Atelier du Trompe-L’Oeil et du Decor Paint
  The Trompe-L’Oeil and Decorative Paint Museum is unique in Europe. It is possible to see demonstrations of work in progress. Located at 5 rue Emile Combes in Perigueux.
  Tel: 05 53 09 84 40
• Musee d’Histoire Locale
  The local history museum in Villefranche de Lonchat contains portraits, costumes and more. Located at Villefranche de Lonchat near Saint Michel de Montaigne. 
  Tel: 05 53 81 21 39
• Musee de Cognac
  A museum dedicated to manufacturing Cognac. The process is clearly explained and the tools clearly displayed. Located in St Aulaye.
  Tel: 05 53 90 81 33
• Musee de l’Or
  Located in the basement of the Castle of Jumilhac le Grand. The museum takes one back to Gaul times when gold was mined in the region.
  Tel: 05 53 52 55 43
• Musee de la Carte Postale Ancienne du Perigord
  The Historical Postcards Museum of Perigord offers more than 33 000 exhibits. Founded by Henry Brives. Located at Saint Pardoux la Riviere.
  Tel: 05 53 60 76 10
• Musee de la Ferblanterie
  Offers more than 1000 white & galvanised iron exhibits dating from the 18th century till today. At La Tour Blanche near Riberac.
  Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee de la Medicine
  This medical museum in Hautefort, is housed in what was known as a poorhouse that housed local destitutes. The building was finished in 1740 and now hosts the tourist office, a weavers workshop and the medicam museum. See website for more details. 
  Tel: 05 53 50 40 27
• Musee de la Paleontologie et de la Vie Sauvage
  Includes 3000 articles of paleonthology covering 700 million years. The Musee de la Vie Sauvage boasts more than 1000 stuffed exhibits. Open June to September. Located at 9 rue de la Republic in La Bugue sur Vezere. 
  Tel: 05 53 08 28 10
• Musee de la Pierre Taillee
  This sculptured stone museum displays stomes from the Paleothique and Neolithique periods. 
  Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Musee de la Prehistoire.
  Offres visitors an original projection room amongst the rocks. Offer various examples of sculptured rocks and Magdalenian art. Located at Teyjat. 
  Tel: 05 53 56 30 29
   
• Musee des Arts et Traditions Populaires
  The Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions in Mussidan assembled this collection of artifacts from yesteryear including furniture and other objects. 
  Tel: 05 53 81 23 55
• Musee des Records 
  situated in the “salle polyvalent”, it offers a light hearted history of the songs that featured for the town’s annual August festival. Located at La Tour Blanche near Riberac. 
  Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee des Rois d’Araucanie
  The Museum of the King of Araucanie celebrates Antoine de Tounens who left for Patagonia in 1860 where he declared himself king. He was expelled by the Chilean police in 1860. Medals and official documentation are on show. Located in Chourgnac near Sorge 
  Tel: 05 53 51 12 76
• Musee du Foie Gras
  Discover how geese and ducks are raised, how “Foie Gras” is processed and learn about how to prepare it. At place de Marechal Foch, Thiviers, Dordogne (24).
  Tel: 05 53 55 12 50
• Musee du Suaire
  The relic of St Suaire is to be found in the Cadouin Abbey. Built in 1115, the abbey has recently been declared a world heritage site. Located in Cadouin.
  Tel: 05 53 63 36 28
• Musee du Tabac
  A tobacco museum located at Place du Feu in Bergerac. Displays a large selection of tobacco paraphernalia. Open in season. 
  Tel: 05 53 63 04 13
• Musee du Ver a Soie
  An interesting and educational silkworm museum. Located at Saint Just near Riberac. 
  Tel: 05 53 90 73 60
• Musee du Vin de la Tonnellerie et de la Batellerie
  A museum dedicated to the making of wine barrels and related objects. Located at 5 rue des Conferences in Bergerac.
  Tel: 05 53 57 80 92
• Musee Eugene le Roy
  To be found in the old Saint Jean l’Evangeliste Hospital. It is dedicated to the writings of Eugene Le Roy who died in the city in 1907. Displays his writings, photos, clothing and other souvenirs. Located in Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 51 82 60
• Musee Fossiles
  The Fossil Museum features a 5.5m high and 11m long metalique sculpture of a Tyrannosaurus-Rex amongst other exhibits. Located in Peyzac le Moustier near Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 50 81 02
• Musee Gallo Romain Vesunna
  At Rue 26eme RI, Perigueux. Conceived by Jean Nouvel, this museum presents one of the most significant archeological remains in Aquitaine. 
  Tel: 05 53 53 00 92
• Musee Militaire du Perigord
  The Perigord Military Museum is at 32 Rue des Farges, Perigueux. Presents over 13000 pieces on French military history. 
  Tel: 05 53 53 47 36
• Musee Napoleon
  An opportunity to visit the Museum of Napoleon and to view his family history. Situated within the grounds of Chateau de la Pommerie in the heart of Cendrieux, Dordogne (24). 
  Tel: 05 53 03 24 03 Fax: 05 53 03 22 39
• Musee National de Prehistoire
  Offers an extremelly comprehensive and chronologically ordered exhibition covering the Paleolithic period. Located at Les Eyzies.
  Tel: 05 53 06 45 45 Fax: 05 53 06 45 55

The highlight of a trip to Bergerac is the old town – the area immediately north of the river, signposted ‘vieille ville’. This part of the town has some lovely streets and squares to explore, and a variety of boutique type shops.

There are also several restaurants in ‘old-town’ Bergerac among the attractive medieval half-timbered streets, and some open-air cafes where you can pass a very pleasant hour just watching people going about their business.

Visit the Maison de Vins de Bergerac in the heart of the old town. It is a beautiful old cloister dating back to the 12th century. If you are a wine enthusiast there is an exhibition showing the history of Bergerac wines and its 13 appellations. During the summer there are occasional concerts which take place in the cloister. It is a lovely setting for them and worth going if you get the chance. In December there is usually a small but good quality Christmas Market here with products from local artisans, very useful if you are doing some Christmas shopping.

The National Tobacco Museum is based here in Bergerac, and is apparently very interesting. (Tobacco is still an important crop in the region, that you will probably see growing in the fields.)

Up from the old town, there is a newer, more modern part to Bergerac, with more conventional streets and a larger range of ‘modern’ shops.

The market, held on a Saturday, is at the higher end of the town.

After exploring Bergerac you can take an organised boat trip (bagarre) up the river (start from the car-park at the bottom end of the old-town) to see the town and the nearby countryside from a different perspective. (But be warned – several people we know have done this and said it was a waste of time because the boat didn’t go far enough – I recommend you wait, and take a boat trip from one of the bases further upstream).

Museums

Maison des Vins – as mentioned above this is housed in an ancient cloister (which you can enter without entering the exhibition), there is an exhibition of the history of Bergerac wines.
Musee d’Interet National du Tabac (Tobacco museum) – history social and cultural of tobacco.
Musee Costi – sculptures

Tourist Office
97, rue Neuve d’Argenson
24100 Bergerac
33-553.57.03.11
33-553.61.11.04
www.bergerac-tourisme.com

History

Two hundred and fifty years BC it was inhabited by a celtic tribe the Bellovaques, who gave the city its name. The 11th century AD made it a fortified city because of its strategic position. In its most ancient part you find the castrum (fortified village) with its old keep (the “Tour de l’Auditeur”, 11th century), the Hôtel Bontemps (12th century, with its renaissance front), the ramparts, which used to encircle the city with a fortified gate and a tower later to be raised into a belfry (15th century). It towers above the Place d’Armes, nowadays used as a market-place every Saturday morning, with its five hundred years old 23 pillars and the pillori-irons to which the prisoners used to be chained.

In the hollow of the medieval ditch you can see the entrance to the troglodytic caves, once inhabited (from the 13th to the 18th centuries; guided visits all the year round, upon prior reservation). Strolling along the streets and alleys with their poetical names the “rue du Bout du Monde” (end of the world), the “Rue de l’Oiseau qui Chante (the singing bird), you will meet some more architectural treasures, the castle, the former Couvent des Frères Prêcheurs (monastery of the preaching priest)

About

In the centre of the town you can visit some troglodyte dwellings that date from around the 13th century. In the town you can also see the medieval belfry and walls, a 14th century castle, and the city hall. Belves is famous as being the ‘town of seven bell towers’. You will enjoy a pleasant afternoon wandering the streets and alleys of Belves – note that it is listed as ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’.

The main sights

The old town, called Le Castrum, originates from the 11/12th century and was originally surrounded by ramparts. These were 15 metres high under the hospital! Some of the ramparts are still visible – wander down the rue du Petit Sol and the rue de l’oiseau qui chante (street of the bird that sings!).

The Belfry was built in the 11th century and was originally a defensive tower overhanging a deep moat in which people lived in caves. At the bottom of the moat the troglodytes grew their vegetables. The visit to the “Habitations troglodytiques” is very interesting.

The entrance to the troglodyte dwelling is by the fortified gate in the corner of the square. In the 11th century this had a drawbridge and was the only entrance to the Castrum.

Also from the 11th century is the ‘Tourd de l’Auditeur’. The entrance is high up as guards used to enter by ladder and then pull this up to prevent intruders.

The other main building of the middle ages is ‘La Tour du Guet’, the watch tower which is out of town on the corner of the rue du Bout du Monde (End of the World Street ) and the Pelevade street (named after a menhir which once stood here). The watch tower overlooks the valley and so could warn when the enemy approached.

Moving into the 13th century there is the monastery of the ‘Freres Precheurs’, now the townhall of Belves, and the church of Moncuq whose choir and chapels are 13th century though much of the rest is 15th century.

The chateau on the edge of town was started in the 14th century and altered during the Renaissance and afterwards.

In the 15th and 16th century the covered market was built. Note the pilori chain on one of the pillars. This was put round the neck of wrong-doers and they were held there for two or three days.

The Maison des Consuls which houses the tourist office is also 15th century and was for meetings of the consellors. The ground floor was a guard-room.

One of the highlights of Belves is its position on a rock outcrop, overhanging the valley of the river Nauze, and the views across open countryside from the town. Don’t ignore the surrounding countryside wnen you visit Belves – there is a great deal to explore in the surrounding small villages.

OFFICE DE TOURISME DU PAYS DE BELVES
1, Rue des Filhols
24170 BELVES
TEL/FAX : 33-553-29-10-20
belves@perigord.com

http://www.perigord.com/belves

The town’s history is tied into that of the abbey. Around 620 AD, a hermit named Cyprien settled in a cave that overlooked the Dordogne valley. Others gathered around him and a monastic community grew up. Barbarian invasions in the mid-9th century made the monks build defensive ramparts, of which the belltower-keep survives.

In 1076 the monastery, now an Augustine body, was doing so well that Bertrand de Got, archbishop of Bordeaux and later Pope Clement V, took it under his wing.

In the Hundred Years’ War, St Cyprien suffered from its exposed border position between Eleanor’s Aquitaine and the Kingdom of France.

In 1568, during the Wars of Religion, Calvinist troops burned the priory to the ground, but the monastery was rebuilt in 1685. Declared a “national asset”, in April 1791 it was sold to the town for 8,125 francs and renamed “Temple of Reason dedicated to the Supreme Being”.

In 1871 the state tobacco monopoly knocked down the cloister, closed off the inner doors, and turned the place into a warehouse.

Every summer the St Cyprien tourist office receives over 10,000 visitors. Located in the village centre, it is open all year round.Place Charles de Gaulle 24220 Saint Cyprien

Opening hours

1 November to 28 Febuary
Monday to Saturday 9:30 to 12:30, 3 to 6pm Except wednesday afternoon

1 March to 31 October
Monday to Saturday 9:30 to 12:30, 3 to 6pm Sunday 10 to 12am

15 Mai to 30 September
Monday to Friday 9:30 to 12:30, 3 to 6pm Sunday 10 to 12am

Confiscated during the French Revolution, the Château des Milandes went through several owners who did not make any particular mark on its history. In 1870, a rich industrialist, Monsieur Claverie, acquired it, restored and enlarged it to give it the appearance it has today. In this Monsieur Claverie was largely inspired by the Neo-Gothic architectural movement led by Viollet le Duc. The exterior was modified or rebuilt during the 19th Century and some parts, such as the square tower were raised. On top of this tower, a 36m3 water tank was built, fed by a spring passing under the Château. In fact the tower served as a water tower, the first modern convenience in the Château. The gardens, laid out in the 15th Century, were also reorganized in the 19th. The farm on the site of the present gardens was removed and a new one built a bit further away. It was reputed to be a model’ farm, extremely modern for its time. Making use of the additional space available and the perspectives opened up, Monsieur Claverie laid out a new garden “a la française”. The wine trade, important in the region from the 14th Century onwards, made a significant contribution to the local economy. “Gabarres”, flat bottomed boats, carried wine for export to England and Holland down the Dordogne to Bordeaux. Monsieur Claverie built the wine cellars, an outbuilding in the form of a barbican, in which he placed enormous vats called “foudres” (tuns) each containing some 45 barrels of wine. On the death of her husband Madame Claverie sold the Château in 1920 to a Monsieur Mallez and the Chapel to the Commune of Castelnaud.

In 1938 Josephine Baker the Vaudeville star rented the Château and then bought it in 1947. Born in the slums of St. Louis, her childhood was spent in the streets, getting by, along with other black kids, she grew up sleeping in cardboard shelters and scavenging for food in garbage cans. At the age of 13,she left her parents’ house and got a job as a waitress. In 1918, she started work for the BOOKER WASHINGTON THEATER Dance Troupe, first as a maid, then, fairly soon after, as the “Funny Girl”. In 1924 she became dresser to a troupe of “Girls” where, when one of them fell ill, she took her place at a moments notice. She rapidly became the main attraction, and her success made her famous. Soon after, a producer, Caroline DUDLEY, offered her a chance of a European tour as she was recruiting black artists for a show in Paris. Josephine accepted, but with a certain trepidation. On her arrival she soon discovered that people could be so open-minded; not like her beloved, but cruel, racist USA. Now, far away from racism and racial segregation she was free to take part in the struggle on behalf on her brothers and sisters, a battle in which she felt morally obliged to participate. France became her new country,Château des Milandes her new home and she remained there to the end of her life. Baker engaged in undercover work for the French Resistance during World War II. She became an “honorable correspondent” and became sub-lieutenant in the Women’s Auxiliary of the French Air Force and was awarded the “Medal of Resistance” and the “Legion d’Honore”. In 1940, Baker moved to MoroccoIn 1942, she toured the region performing for the resistance. She returned to France in 1944, got married in 1947 to Jo Bouillon, an orchestra leader, and was back in the States in 1948, where she became an activist for civil rights. She was back at the Milandes Château in 1954, with the intention of raising a family of ethnically diverse children that she had brought to France from her tours around the world. She called them her “Rainbow Tribe.”In her last years, Baker suffered struggles, financial difficulties, and poor health.She died on April 12, 1975, four days after the opening of Josephine, a show based on her life. Her funeral took place in her beloved France, the country which she had adopted as her home and had taken her into their hearts.

The Beune Valley has been occupied for a very long time. Around Commarque, prehistoric man has left numerous traces of his passage. Not far from the site at Commarque, Paleolithic man left two female statuettes known as the Venus of Sireuil and the Venus of Laussel.
On the other side of the valley, in the shelter at Cap Blanc, one can admire a frieze of prehistoric sculptures. Under Commarque Castle there is a cave where Magdalenian man carved animals on the wall, notably a very beautiful life-sized horse (not open to the public).

 
The Uncertain Origins of Commarque

The most reasonable hypothesis would be to attribute the founding of a keep at Commarque to one of the two abbots of the same name who succeeded the abbey see of Sarlat during the last third of the XIIth century: Garin (1169-1181) or Randolph de Commarque (1195-1201). The building of a tower allowed them to contain the ambitions of their vassals the Beynacs, with whom they had a relationship of conflict. It was a member of their family who obtained its guard. The first Lord of Commarque, thus, was a “milites castri” or knight, who followed orders from the Abbey of Sarlat. In the XIIth century, a concentration of population existed there, made up of a keep with living quarters, a chapel and house towers: it was the castrum of Commarque.
 

The Beynacs, Lords of Commarque

There is mention of Commarque in archive documents from 1255 onwards. Maynard de Beynac became the lord of the château. The house towers were held by the lineages of lesser nobles, the names of several of which are known: the Commarque, the Cendrieux, the Gondrix, the La Chapelle… Each house tower had an enclosure, its own access, and ditches. The lord and knights fought over the rights of justice, land and other property.
 

The Rise of the Beynacs

During the course of the XIVth century, two major lineages had the first regrouping of lands by successive acquisitions. The Beynacs succeeded in constituting a veritable castellany around Commarque when they retook the rights of Marquay and of Sireuil from the Cendrieux and imposed their suzerainty on the den of Laussel. The Commarques took back the lands and rights from the descendants of the other knights, either by buying them or through alliances. From the middle of the XIVth century, the entire lower courtyard had become the noble house of the Commarques: they now disposed of a defensive parameter largely exceeding that of the Château of Beynac.
 

The Patrimony of the Beynacs Combined

In 1379 Pons de Beynac, Lord of Commarque, married Philippa, 12 years of age, heiress of the lords of Beynac. By this alliance, the lords of Commarque acquired the castellany of Beynac and its dependencies.
 

The Hundred Years’ War

During the Hundred Years’ War, the Beynacs stayed faithful defenders of the throne of France. Pons de Beynac enjoyed several political favors: he was among the clients of Beaufort-Turenne, of the Avignon papacy and of the Anjou party. The extension of Commarque Castle between 1370 and 1380 has been attributed to him. He undertook heightening the keep and the curtain wall, and had the crown of machicolations built which was inspired by the Palace of the Popes in Avignons.
 

The Decline of the Beynacs and the Commarques

Nevertheless, the Beynacs came out of the Hundred Years’ War badly. First of all, in 1406, the English, driven by Archambaud d’Abzac, seized hold of Commarque. The whole family was brought together and made prisoner. A tax, ordered by the king, was levied on the inhabitants of Perigord and Quercy to pay the ransom. The castellany of Commarque began to break up. In 1395, Pons lost the suzerainty over Laussel . He was unable to retain Domme. And in 1441, the Beynacs went under the influence of the Count of Perigord, a visible sign of their political weakening. During the 1500s, it seems that the resident families had already deserted the castrum of Commarque.
 

The Wars of Religion

During the Wars of Religion, the Beynacs were loyal to the cause of the Reform. From Commarque, which was his base of operation, Geoffroy, Baron of Beynac and Lord of Commarque, launched several attacks on Catholic hideouts in the area and even furtively took hold of Sarlat. In 1569, Commarque Castle was taken for the first time by the Catholics led by the seneschal and by the Governor of Perigord. It is without doubt following this siege that the vaulted room collapsed. As the new master of Commarque, Geoffroy installed a garrison there which, by way of reprisal, would be hanged the same year.
 

The Abandon and Renaissance of Commarque

Guy de Beynac, the last castellan living in Commarque Castle, died there in 1656. The site was definitively abandoned in XVIIIth century. A century later the castle was in ruins. In 1968, Hubert de Commarque bought his ancestors’ ruins. He undertook the consolidation of the most damaged parts. Since 1994 there have been successive phases of consolidation and restoration. Hubert of Commarque has given Kleber Rossillon, the creator of the Museum of Medieval Warfare in Castelnaud Castle and the Gardens of Marqueyssac, the task of opening the Commarque site to the public. A program of archeological research has been in place for several years.

Open hours

April and all saints holidays: from 10:00 am- 6:00 pm
May, June, September:
from 10:00 am – 7:00 pm
July and August: from 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Last admissions 1 hour before closing.

Free parking
Parking located 600 m from the site.
A specially fitted forest path leads to the entrance of the site.

2008 Price

Individual price
Adults: 6 €
Children (10 -17 yrs): 3 €
Children (-10 yrs): free

Group price
(for 20 or more persons)
Adults: 5 €
Children: 2,50 €

Set on a dramatically steep promontory high above the River Dordogne, the unusual trapezium shaped walled village of Domme is one of the most famous bastides in the region. It’s one of the few to have retained most of its 13th-century ramparts, including three fortified gates: porte de la Combe. A one-time base for the Knights Templars (whose religious graffiti can still be seen in the towers by porte des tours, where they were imprisoned in 1307), it was fought over and besieged frequently during the Hundred Years’ War and Wars of Religion. The village is so picturesque it has become very touristy and commercialised, but you can’t beat its stunning panoramas of the River Dordogne and its valley.

INFORMATION

There are two main entrances – southern porte del Bos (the D46/D50 approach from Cenac) or eastern porte des Tours (D46E from Sarlat). At the top of the village’s main street, Grand’Rue, is the central market place, place de la Halle, and the tourist office (Tel: 05 53 31 71 00, Fax: 05 53 31 71 09). It opens 10am to noon and 2pm to 6pm daily (10am to 7pm daily in July and August). It’s closed during January. Car parking inside the walls is metered. There’s a free parking lot just outside porte des Tours.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

The best views are a few steps from place de Halle, from from the cliff-side Esplanade du Belvedere and the adjacent Promenade de la Barre, which streetches west along the forested slope to the Jardin Public. The preciptious bluff below was, amazingly, scaled by Huguenot besiegers during the Wars of Religion, one of the few times the bastide was captured.
Across from the tourist office, the 19th century reconstruction of the 16th century halles ( covered market ) houses the entrance to the grottes ( caves; 0553317100 ) 450 m of stalactite-filled galleries underneath the village that gave the inhabitants a handy refuge during times of attack.
On the far side of the square from the tourist office, the Musee d’ Arts et de Traditions Populaires (0553317100 ) has 9 rooms of clothing, toys, tools and other memorabilia from the past.
Several canoe operators are based in Cenac including Randonee Dordogne.

The town was completely transformed during the 19th century and in 1857, one of its own inhabitants, Léon Dessailles, an archivist and historian published its history. The little town was totally rebuilt, huddled around its churches of St. Marcel and St. Sulpice, and its convent situated just a little way down from the current bridge. Le Bugue is the home of the largest private aquarium in Europe, Canoe trips along the Vézére in summer, and some truely excellent restaurants.
Just on the ourskirts of the town they have constructed a living replica of a typical 19th century French village. Le Village du Bournat is unique, here you will find every day life and objects from a bygone age. Local craftsmen are on hand to demonstrate the dying arts and ancient skills of the Blacksmith, Tanner and Basket Weaver to name a few. A working farm with its ancient tools and implements, a School House with authentic furniture and toys, many of which are there to be played with, the church with its wedding in progress, the Walnut Oil Mill and the Still are all here, a whole microcosm of the French countyside as it was 100 years ago.

There are a number of Pre-Historic sites in and around Le Bugue which are open to the public. One kilometre to the north-west, we find Bara-Bahau cave. discovered in 1951 by the speleologist Norbert Casteret. In this 100 m long cavity formed from the soft crumbly rock – Father Glory compared to cream cheese – prehistoric artists engraved mysterious signs and outlines of aurochs, bears, bison, ibexes and horses with fingers, flint or sticks. The highly rustic style of these works make then difficult to date; they are probably from the ancient Magdalenian era ( 15,000 years B.C. ).
Three kilometres to the south you will find the Gouffre de Proumeyssac. It has been described as a “crystal lighthouse on the edge of a vanished ocean”. It is a vast limestone cavern almost 50 metres high, a large number of translucent stalactites which are still alive, thanks to a passing stream. “One of the finest showcases of underground France”, according to Norbert Casteret, Proumeyssac is a must for any visitor to the Périgord. With the remarkable efforts made by the owners to develop the site, you will not forget the experience of descending the chasm, from the summit, in a fragile basket.

Four kilometres to the east, the little village of Saint-Cirq has a prehistoric cave which features a representation of a full, human face. The Sorcier Cave or Sorcerer’s Cave as it is known, has a few dozen very fine engravings, including a dapple grey horse and a male figure with a complete human face. His particularly expressive features make him one of the most perfect wall engravings of humans ever found.

Market day in Le Bugue is on Tuesday when the whole town comes alive with the vibrant colours and smells of the local produce that is on display. This has become one of the best markets in the region. Here you can buy anything from a lawn mower to freshly cooked Paella and what better past time than to sit in one of the many cafès with a glass of wine or a “Chocolat Chaud” and watch the world go by.

The first remains now known to be Neanderthal were discovered in Belgium in 1829, and further remains were discovered in Gibraltar in 1848. However, it was the 1856 discovery of a partial skull and an assortment of arm, leg and rib bones in the Neander Valley that led to the recognition of Neanderthals as a separate species by Hermann Schaffhausen. ‘Tal’ is the word for ‘valley’ in modern German, having replaced the ‘Thal’ of the slightly dated 19th Century dialect, hence the confusion between Neandertal and Neanderthal. In the light of Darwin’s Origin of Species, published three years later in 1859, Neanderthals became the first bones to be recognised as a ‘missing link’ between humans and apes, of the type that Darwin predicted.

Appearance

Neanderthal and human remains can be difficult to distinguish, especially when dealing with very partial remains. Differences include an occipital bun (lump on the back of the head), lack of a chin, more prominent brow-ridge, broader nose, slightly bowed leg-bones and a generally more robust physique. Most of these features can be found in human skeletons to some degree; for instance, although humans have smaller skulls on average, it is not true to say that all humans have smaller skulls than all Neanderthals. We have no direct way of telling whether Hn had a variety of hair, eye or skin colours, or indeed how much hair they had.

Early Theories

Since Darwin’s theory of evolution was unpublished when the first Neanderthal bones were discovered, scientists struggled to work out what they were. They were clearly more similar to human bones than those of any other living creature, and yet they were at the same time clearly not those of ordinary men. One theory, proposed by Rudolph Virchow, was that they were the remains of a man (assumed to be from Napoleon’s army) who had suffered from a unique form of debilitating rickets as a child, gone on to become a horseman causing him further deformities, suffered a series of crippling head injuries and ended up dying naked in a German valley just miles from the nearest village.

When the first complete set of Neanderthal remains was found at La Chapelle-aux-Saints in France, Pierre Marcellin Boule reconstructed the individual in what would become the classic image of Neanderthals, stoop-backed, bent-kneed and with a ‘dumb’ brow and jaw. Later revisions would show that this individual had suffered from severe arthritis of the spine, but probably had little stoop if any.

‘Out of Africa’ v ‘Multi-region Hypothesis’

From the late 19th Century onwards, it was believed that modern humans were the result of a mixture of genetic traits, developed in separate parts of the world in mutually interbreeding populations. During the 1980s and 1990s, this theory was displaced by the single origin or ‘Out of Africa’ model, which envisaged several species of human evolving in Africa and migrating outwards into Asia and Europe, with each wave of migration displacing the previous one. This was based initially on finds of anatomically modern humans living in Africa 200,000 years ago, backed up by analysis of the mitochondrial DNA of Neanderthals and sapiens, showing that they diverged roughly 500,000 years ago.

More recently, a compromise between these two models appears to have been reached. Although the ‘Out of Africa’ scenario is still held to be generally correct, there is now increasing genetic evidence that inter-breeding did occur between sapiens and Neanderthals, and possibly between sapiens and erectus1 as well. However, gene flow appears to have been very limited, so we seem to be looking at distinct but occasionally interbreeding groups, rather than a homogenised group. Individual hybrids must have been completely incorporated into the society of either sub-species.

More detail can be found in the ‘Science Bit’ below.

How Similar Were They To Humans?

Neanderthals were, until around 24,000 years ago when they disappeared, the closest known relatives to modern humans2. We now have partial remains of over 400 Neanderthal individuals, making them the best-studied and most recent of the relatives of modern man. None of these bones have been fossilised, and some are intact enough to have had fragments of DNA extracted. Perhaps because they were first known as ‘missing links’, they have always been portrayed in the mass media as midpoint between humans and apes, with a stooped posture, receding brow and no culture except, perhaps, a few strategically placed pieces of animal hide.

This has, however, long been at odds with scientific interpretation both of Neanderthal remains and of the artefacts associated with them. Although Neanderthals are not now widely considered to be directly ancestral to Homo sapiens (with both species instead being descended from other Homo species), they remain far more closely related to us than most of the other extinct hominins3.

Neanderthals had notably large brains – larger on average than Homo sapiens. The average modern human has a brain capacity of around 1400cc. Neanderthals actually had larger brains, at 1500cc, which may seem surprising except for the facts that brain size does not indicate intelligence (whales, anyone?), and Neanderthal brain volume to body mass ratio is actually lower than in sapiens. They would have walked with a fully upright posture, and were capable of making tools of equal quality to those of Homo sapiens. The oldest known musical instrument is a fragment of a bone flute found at a site associated with Neanderthals, so they may have been the world’s first musicians (not including the whales, of course).

Neanderthals are believed to have contributed genetic material to modern humans by interbreeding with early Homo sapiens. This means that they were of the same species as humans; and since the evidence is that this interbreeding continued until the disappearance of Neanderthals, it seems that Neanderthals were never reproductively isolated from humans.

First Appearance

Neanderthals lived in many varied locations, and over a great length of time. It is not surprising that they varied in appearance, with those from more southerly regions being less adapted to the cold than their more northerly cousins.

Many of the traits that distinguish Neanderthals from sapiens and erectus are related to temperature. Neanderthals lived in Europe during a cold period in the Earth’s history – an ‘ice age’ – and consequently had adaptations including a broader nose (more efficient at heating inhaled air) and a squat, compact frame that minimised surface area to volume ratio and so reduced heat loss. The defining image of Neanderthals in popular culture – their stupidity – is categorically incorrect. Neanderthals had a sophisticated culture, and made some developments before their sapiens cousins.

Some cold-adapted traits first appeared in European hominins as long as 1,000,000 years ago in Iberia. However, this does not necessarily indicate genetic separation of the African and Neanderthal strains, which from genetic data is supposed to have happened closer to 500,000 years ago.

At its greatest extent, the Hn subspecies occupied all of mainland Europe south of Denmark and Scandinavia, the southern UK (the Watford Gap is old indeed), and roughly what is now Turkey, Iran, Syria, Iraq and even Uzbekistan.

Culture

The culture of Neanderthals is technically known as Mousterian, after Le Moustier in France, where a Neanderthal skull was found. This refers largely to the design of stone scrapers, probably used for either scraping skins or simple woodwork. There is no evidence that Neanderthals ever developed the ability to sew, so it is unlikely that they wore clothing (despite the cold climate). It seems that Neanderthals made use of fire, but probably not for warmth. They do not seem to have constructed any structures, even tents. Mousterian technology includes stabbing spearheads and axes, but no throwing spears or arrowheads.

Animal remains are frequently associated with Neanderthal sites, indicating that they were meat-eaters. Interestingly, these remains are usually of animals in their prime, something usually associated with farming rather than hunting (where elderly or infirm animals would be easier to catch). Injuries found in Neanderthal skeletons are frequently similar to those found in rodeo clowns, which implies that Neanderthals often wrestled with large animals. This most likely indicates a close-quarters hunting method, although it is possible that livestock was also kept. Many of these injuries (for instance those suffered by the aged individual recovered at La Chapelle-aux-Saints in France) would have been debilitating, which indicates a communal structure that tended to the infirm.

Whistles made from the phalange bone of a reindeer leg – what would be a finger or toe bone in humans – are known from 90-100,000 years ago, but it is unclear whether these were used for music; an artefact that may or may not be a flute is known to have come from 20,000 years later, although many maintain it is a bone with bear tooth-holes in it. Neanderthals buried their dead, and one burial at Shanidar in Iraq was accompanied by grave goods in the form of plants. All of the plants are used in recent times for medicinal purposes, and it seems likely that the Neanderthals also used them in this way and buried them with their dead for the same reason. Grave goods are an archaeological marker of belief in an afterlife, so Neanderthals may well have had some form of religious belief.

Some Neanderthal burials appear to show incisions on the bones that would indicate butchery. This may be evidence of cannibalism, either by Neanderthals or sapiens. Whether this was an act of desperation or a religious ritual is not known, but it is generally accepted. However, it must be seen in the light of the other, more careful Neanderthal burials that would indicate a general respect for the dead.

Extinction

Neanderthals were adapted for a colder climate than their African cousins. Temperatures in Europe have fluctuated greatly over the past half-million years, with glaciers covering Scandinavia for long periods. It was long believed that rising temperatures, in combination with competition from sapiens, led to the disappearance of Neanderthals.

More accurate measurements of palaeoclimate have altered this view. The temperature increased from around 24,000 years ago, reaching its highest levels for 130,000 years. Neanderthals had survived at least two such warm spells (interglacial periods) before, and this third warming appears after final decline.

Neanderthals shared Europe with Homo sapiens for several tens of millennia, during which Hn appear to have been in decline. It is unclear whether there was direct competition between the two species; it seems more likely that competition was indirect, with H. sapiens being better at running after prey and using hurling weapons, and H. neanderthalensis no longer having the advantage of its cold-weather adaptations. It is also possible that rapid changes in climate denuded the forests; without sufficient cover to sneak up on their prey, the Neanderthals slowly found their ambush-hunting methods becoming ineffective – contrast this with the sapiens, who were able to use ranged weapons and relied less on the cover of the forests to hunt. However, this idea would clash with the evidence that the Neanderthals farmed animals.

There is some evidence that the range of Neanderthal dwellings tailed the ice northwards, with Homo sapiens colonising Europe from the south. However, this is inconclusive; Neanderthals survived at the extremities of Europe, with the last known population being in Gibraltar (ironically, at the southern limit of their range).

The Science Bit

The ‘Multiregion Hypothesis’ was first proposed in 1964, dominated throughout the 1980s, then fell out of favour during the 1990s. Mitochondrial DNA analyses of modern humans show that the most recent female ancestor common to all living humans lived less than 170,000 years ago – long after we diverged from Neanderthals 500,000 years ago. Later Y-chromosome analyses showed that our most recent male ancestor is around 100,000 years old. Although this was good evidence, it could also be explained by all part-Neanderthal lineages passing through an all-male generation, so that no Neanderthal mtDNA was passed on. Recovery in 1987 of mitochondrial DNA from a Neanderthal bone offered further confirmation of this theory.

The discovery in 1999 of a 24,000-year-old adolescent skeleton in Lapedo, Portugal (the Lapedo Child) with an apparent mixture of Neanderthal and sapiens characteristics has led to speculation that rather than going extinct, Neanderthals may have interbred with modern-type humans. More recently, a second alleged hybrid has been unearthed in Romania, and this idea has been backed up by more detailed genetic analyses. Haplotypes are sections of DNA that do not appear to be reshuffled during sexual reproduction. Although the majority of human haplotypes are consistent with ’shallow ancestry’ – the idea that Homo sapiens evolved in Asia around 160,000 years ago – a small number seem to show deeper ancestry. A haplotype known as PDHA1 seems to have diverged around 1,800,000 years ago. It is difficult to explain how both varieties survived if humans were reduced to a small population (a bottleneck) much later than that; this gives support to the idea that it was introduced into the population by interbreeding with another population, such as Neanderthals. This re-introduction of genetic material is known as introgression.

Another example is the haplotype microcephalin, which diverged around 1,000,000 years ago but seems to have introgressed around 40,000 years ago. This ties in very neatly with the fossil dates for the appearance of Neanderthals and their simultaneous occupation of Europe with Homo sapiens. Both these examples are of genes that appear to offer an advantage, and have spread throughout the population by natural selection. This makes it impossible to tell whether they were introduced multiple times or just once, so they cannot be used to judge the frequency of Neanderthal/sapiens hybrids. The next step in research is to analyse ‘junk’ haplotypes, which cannot be selected for or against and are thus unaffected by natural selection. If these are found to be common, it would indicate frequent hybridisation events.

Finally, the RRM2P4 haplotype appears to have diverged 2,000,000 years ago. This pre-dates the separation of sapiens and Neanderthals, so it offers a hint that our ancestors may have bred with another sub-species, Homo erectus.

Any two groups that interbreed in the wild are defined as the same species, so Neanderthals are now recognised as a sub-species of humans, and are officially known as Homo sapiens neanderthalensis, as opposed to Homo sapiens sapiens, which covers everything from Cro-Magnon man to ourselves.

Controversies

As if the debates described above were not enough, there are a number of theories somewhere on the spectrum from the radical to the ridiculous. Below are some examples of ideas that are not generally accepted by palaeontologists but that do occasionally circulate.

Some studies indicate that Neanderthals may have had considerably longer lifespans than humans. This is not widely accepted, as it is based upon the assumption that rates of maturation in Neanderthals are very similar to those in Homo sapiens. Specifically, ages are calculated according to tooth wear and this is then correlated to maturity of the specimen in terms of height, development, etc. The conclusion is that Neanderthals took longer than sapiens to reach maturity, and thus that their lifespan must have been correspondingly longer. Almost every stage of this line of argument is contentious, and it is highly notable that no Neanderthal remains of individuals with an apparent age greater than around 40 years have been found.

Creationists, naturally, contend that Neanderthals are fully modern humans, often arguing along the lines of Virchow’s discredited theory that the differences between Neanderthals and sapiens are caused by injuries and pathologies. The sheer quantity of Neanderthal remains now known make it difficult to conceive of all individuals suffering the same injuries, and means that palaeontologists universally reject this idea.

Finally, it has been proposed that the related group of neurological disorders that include autism, Asperger’s syndrome, dyslexia and attention deficit hyperactive disorder (ADHD) may be due to the presence of Neanderthal genetic material, rather than mis-functioning genes. Supporters of this theory draw parallels between the symptoms of autism and deduced behaviours of Neanderthals: dispraxia (lack of hand-eye coordination) compared to absence of Neanderthal throwing weapons; seasonal affected disorder (SAD) may indicate Neanderthals hibernated; autistic children typically have a slightly larger brain; and difficulty in learning a language. They also note that autism is more common among people of European descent, who would be expected to have more Neanderthal genes than those of purely African or Asian descent. Opponents point to the circumstantial nature of this evidence, maintain that there are many symptoms of autism that are not explained in this way, and object to the assumptions made (there is no direct evidence to support the idea that Neanderthals hibernated outside of the Neanderthal theory of autism, and Neanderthals may well have had a language).

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1 Homo erectus was another relative of both Homo neanderthalensis and Homo sapiens.
2 With the possible exception of the disputed taxon Homo floriensis, known to the popular media as ‘hobbits’.
3 ‘Hominin’ is the term used for all humans, living and extinct. ‘Hominid’, formerly used for humans, has now been widened to include apes. It is now possible that Neanderthals may have been driven extinct by terminal confusion about their own identity.

Neanderthal – Episode 1 – Part 1 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 1 – Part 2 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 1 – Part 3 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 1 – Part 4 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 1 – Part 5 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 2 – Part 1 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 2 – Part 2 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 2 – Part 3 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 2 – Part 4 of 5

Neanderthal – Episode 2 – Part 5 of 5

Most people visiting the Vezere and Dordogne Valley have an interest in history, so why not stay a few nights in an historic B&B in the heart of it all?. B&B Ferme de Tayac, a 12th century former farmhouse / monastery ideally situated in Les Eyzies de Tayac, in the heart of the Vezere Valley, known as the “Prehistoric Capital of the World” In the beginning of the 12th century, the monks of the monastery of Paunat settled in Tayac, and started building the fortified church of Tayac, Saint Martin. At the same time they started buiding “Ferme de Tayac” which became the working farm and monastery for the monks. B&B Ferme de Tayac is a must place to stay if you are visiting the Dordogne, since it officially opened to the public 2 years ago, it has been rated the #1 B&B accommodation both years running. B&B Ferme de Tayac is a 12th Century former Monastery farmhouse, lived in and run by the Monks who owned and worked the land for hundreds of years. Located in the heart of the Vezere Valley in the picturesque small village of Tayac, just 8 minutes walk from the center of Les Eyzies. In 2001 Suzanne & Mike purchased Ferme de Tayac after it had been unoccupied for over 10 years. It was in a sorry state, and was deemed dangerous and a hazzard. It took Suzanne & Mike 7 years to bring Ferme de Tayac back to it’s former glory. With among other things, meter thick walls, rooms built into solid rock, oak beam structures, and bedrooms in former monks quarters make Ferme de Tayac a speacial and very unique place to stay whilst visiting the Dordogne, and it is not hard to see why Ferme de Tayac has been the travellers choice of accommodation for 2 years. For more and updated info on Ferme de Tayac please visit their official web site http://www.fermedetayac.com/

Read travellers reviews about Ferme de Tayac:

Built in an overhang shelter on the face of a striking cliff, the National Prehistoric Museum of Eyzies-de-Tayac is located in Dordogne, in southwestern France. The museum features unique archaeological collections chiefly discovered at the most prestigious excavation sites in the Vézère Valley, added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List owing to its many Palaeolithic remains. 300,000 visitors annually are expected at the new museum, located in the heart of the Périgord Noir area, land of French philosopher Montaigne – a region acclaimed for its history, beautiful landscapes of dark and mysterious forests, and world-renowned gastronomy.

Established since July 2004 in the new building designed by architect Jean-Pierre Buffi, the museum houses some 18,000 pieces and a collection of six million objects.“Although the new museum bears witness to the presence of men and women of the 21st century, its modernity manifests itself through its environment, marked by the sheer height of the cliff it is built on and the small size of the historical village of Eyzies-de-Tayac, with its 900 inhabitants and its medieval ruins”, remarks Jean-Pierre Buffi, architect of the Toulouse multimedia library and of the Façade of the Bercy Park in Paris.

The museum’s collections were established as early as 1913, when indefatigable researcher Denis Peyrony convinced the French state to acquire the Château des Eyzies, built at the end of the 16th century, and to transform it into an excavation warehouse that could double up as a museum. These collections have since been tremendously enriched through excavation discoveries at regional sites as well as private donations.

“The museum made a political choice by deciding not to portray the entire history of the Hominids’ development”, explains Jean-Jacques Cleyet-Merle, the museum’s director since 1988. “Instead, the museum describes the Palaeolithic era: the history of the Neanderthals, who vanished 50,000 years ago, and of the Cro-Magnon man, who lived in socially structured groups, buried his dead and made objects that had a symbolic meaning”.

Visitors enter the new museum as though embarking on a trip to the origins of humanity. At the museum’s entrance, the main chapters of the Hominids’ development are evoked through an anthropological frieze and a brief reminder of Africa’s history, starting with the early Australopithecines. Many themes are explored, including the legendary “Lucy”, the small 3.5-million-year-old woman discovered in Ethiopia in 1974. Next, the staircase leading to the permanent exhibit galleries plunges visitors into the mists of time, revealing seven sequences that cover the entire Palaeolithic era through an “idealstratigraphy”.

Upon leaving the“abysses of time”, visitors – equipped with the keys necessary for interpreting the rest of the exhibit – slide into the lower gallery and discover, along a passageway, the various material cultures that succeeded one another from 400,000 to 10,000 BC. This same itinerary also retraces the development of these different cultures: early tools, furniture, and other artefacts. Many themes are presented, such as the lifestyle of Neanderthal populations and the appearance of modern man.

In the upper gallery, visitors are invited to follow an initiatory path from the outside world of mankind’s ancestors to the semi-darkness of the painted caves. Museum-goers can also admire the replicas of prehistoric hearths, of the homes built under shelters and of the places of origin of the objects on display in the rest of the gallery. The reconstructed grave of “L’enfant de la Madeleine” is of particular interest in this section.

Each object – statuettes, jewels, harpoons, lamps, scrapers of all sorts, to name but some of the pieces – has been selected with great care, based on its representativeness and its state of conservation.

Organised by Jean-Jacques Cleyet-Merle, in close partnership with the Scientific Council chaired by Jean-Philippe Rigaud, honorary director of the Institute for Prehistory and Quaternary Geology of Bordeaux, the new National Prehistoric Museum’s scientific programme has been influenced by the establishment’s location at the heart of the prestigious sites and deposits from which its acquired its exceptional collections. In addition to the famous Lascaux Cave and its colourful cave paintings, many listed sites hark back to 400,000 years of human history, from the Font-de-Gaume cave to the Combarelles and Rouffignac caves, as well as the Poisson, Moustier and Micoque shelters.

Artists at the time had a very basic colour palette, consisting of black, ochre and red, which they skilfully used to make colour gradations, creating astoundingly lifelike animal scenes. In the new museum, “the ochre tones, such as the grey of the cast-aluminium roofs, mirror the cliff’s timeless colours”, points out Jean-Pierre Buffi.

In addition to presenting its collections to the general public, conserving humankind’s heritage and supporting archaeological digs, the National Prehistoric Museum also hosts archaeologists, researchers and students from the world over, and collaborates with various foreign institutions.

The abundance of masterpieces, shelters and grottos that dot the entire Vézère Valley, framed by dark and mysterious forests, vineyards and rivers, should not cause visitors to forget that Périgord is also the land of foie gras, duck confit, walnuts, cep mushrooms and the distinct-smelling truffles. Just 20 km away from Eyzies-de-Tayac, Sarlat – a town full of art and history, whose old streets shelter the former home of humanist writer La Boétie – is well worth a visit. One of the favourite visiting places of film directors, this prestigious site regularly hosts special events such as film festivals, theatre games, village celebrations, and much more.

Nestled in the heart of Périgord Noir, Les Eyzies-de-Tayac is sure to captivate you. The entire region, including its soil, beats with the soul of humanity.

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This Middle Ages construction, with its austere appearance, is perched on top of a limestone cliff, dominating the town and the north bank of the Dordogne River.

HISTORY

The castle was built from the 12th century by the barons of Beynac (one of the four baronies of Périgord) to close the valley. The sheer cliff face being sufficient to discourage any assault from that side, the defences were built up on the plateau: double crenellated walls, double moats, one of which was a deepened natural ravine, double barbican.

The oldest part of the castle is a large, square-shaped, Romanesque keep with vertical sides and few openings, held together with attached watch towers and equipped with a narrow spiral staircase terminating on a crenellated terrace. To one side, a residence of the same period is attached; it was remodelled and enlarged in the 16th and 17th centuries. On the other side is a partly 14th century residence side-by-side with a courtyard and a square plan staircase serving the 17th century apartments. The apartments have kept their woodwork and a painted ceiling from the 17th century. The Salle des États (States’ Hall) has a Renaissance sculptured fireplace and leads into a small oratory entirely covered with 15th century frescoes, included a Pietà, a Saint Christopher, and a Last Supper in which Saint Martial (first bishop of Limoges) is the maître d’hôtel.

At the time of the Hundred Years’ War, the fortress at Beynac was in French hands. The Dordogne was the border between France and England. Not far away, on the opposite bank of the river, the Château de Castelnau was held by the English. The Dordogne region was the theatre of numerous struggles for influence, rivalries and occasionally battles between the English and French supporters. However, the castles fell more often through ruse and intrigue rather than by direct assault, because the armies needed to take these castles were extremely costly: only the richest nobles and kings could procure them.

The castle was bought in 1962 by Lucien Grosso who has lovingly restored it.

Visitors to the castle can see sumptuous tapestries showing hunting and other scenes from the lives of the lords of the period. The Château de Beynac has been listed as a monument historique by the French Ministry of Culture since 1944.

Beynac castle has served as a location for several films, including Les Visiteurs by Jean-Marie Poiré, in 1993, La Fille de d’Artagnan by Bertrand Tavernier, in 1994, Ever After by Andy Tennant, in 1998, and Jeanne d’Arc by Luc Besson, in 1999. The village of Beynac below the chateau, also served as a location for the film Chocolat by Lasse Hallström, in 2000.

Barons de Beynac

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Contrary to appearances, the name of the Dordogne is not a recent word resulting from the names of the Dore and the Dogne. It comes from an ancient Durānius, dérived from a preceltic root dur-, dor- (as the Durance).

The medieval forms adopted a redoubled suffix -ononia : Dorononia fluvius (sixth century), Dornonia (eighth century) that evolves in Dordonia (ninth century) by a phenomenon of dissimilation, giving the impression of an etymology *Dore-Dogne.

Geography

The river rises on the flanks of Puy de Sancy (1 885 m) in the mountains of Auvergne, from the confluence of two small torrents above the town of Mont-Dore: the Dore and the Dogne. It flows generally west about 500 km through the Limousin and Périgord regions before flowing into the Gironde, its common estuary with the Garonne, at the “Ambès beak”, in the north of the city of Bordeaux.

Nature

The Dordogne is one of the few rivers in the world that exhibits the phenomenon known as a tidal bore. The Valley of the Dordogne is quite beautiful and contributes significantly to the attractiveness of the region. The main season for tourism in the Valley of the Dordogne is from June to September with July and August being high tide.

Course

The départements of France through which the Dordogne River runs, together with some towns in those départements that are on or quite near the River, are as follows:

• The département of Puy-de-Dôme – the towns of Mont-Dore (near the source of the River), La Bourboule
• The département of Corrèze – the towns of Argentat and Bort-les-Orgues
• The département of Lot – The town of Souillac
• The département of Dordogne – The towns of Beynac-et-Cazenac, Sarlat, Saint-Cyprien, and Bergerac
• The département of Gironde – the towns of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande and Libourne

Tributaries

Dordogne River in the PérigordMain tributaries from source to mouth:

(R) Rhue
(R) Diège
(R) Luzège
(L) Sumène
(L) Auze
(R) Doustre
(L) Maronne
(L) Cère
(R) Sourdoire
(L) Ouysse
(R) Vézère along which many of the great prehistoric caves of Southwest France are located
(R) Isle
(L) Laurence
N.B. : (R) = right tributary; (L) = left tributary

Canoeing on the Dordogne River

In the early 12th century 6 Monks from the Monastery of Paunat were travelling between Monasteries when one of the Monks became very ill, they set up camp in Tayac near a water source. The monk was dieing, but miraculously healed after drinking the water from the “Tayac Source”. To the Monks of Paunat this was a “Sign” and round about 1123 they started building the magnificent and fortified church of Tayac, they called it “St Martin“.
At the same time, the Monks of Paunat started working the land in this lush Vezere valley, they built the farmhouse / monastery, which is now “Ferme de Tayac” that has been completely renovated, and is now a lovely B&B opposite the church.
For hundreds of years the Monks lived here and worked the lands, bit by bit houses were built against the rock.
The water from the “Tayac Source” was taken to other surrounding Monasteries, for it’s healing powers, Tayac was thriving.
Two centuries later, things took a turn, wars were breaking out, armies were constantly attacking areas and strongholds. Religion and all that went with it lost it’s power, and very slowly the life in and around Tayac became what it is today. St. Martin still stands proud, and is without doubt the nicest Fortified Church in the Perigord, the “Tayac Source” is still there, although no longer in use.

During construction for a railroad in 1868, a rock shelter in a limestone cliff was uncovered. Near the back of the shelter, an occupation floor was recognized, and when excavated, it revealed the remains of four adult skeletons, one infant, and some fragmentary bones. The Link between Prehistoric Man and Modern Man had been found, here in Tayac.