Its feudal castle already existed in the beginning of the Middle Ages and until the 10th century; it became by marriage (11th century) one possession of the Count of Perigord, and then became an important fortified town. The last counts: Archambaud V and VI who had been unfaithful to the King were thus deprived of all properties by the Paris Parliament. Montignac then became one property of Louis d’Orléans, brother of French King Charles VI. Charles VI was taken prisoner during the battle of Azincourt and decided to sell the town to Jean de Blois in order to pay his ransom. By marriage, the castle and town then became a property of the D’Albret family until 1603, when French King Henry IV gave them to François d’Hautefort Lord of Thenon. The castle has been many times dismantled during wars, and it was destroyed in 1825. Only one tower and its infrastructure bear witness of its former glory.

The town used to be surrounded by a wall with three doors, of which one led to a wood bridge across the river Vézère (today facing the Pègerie street). This bridge was burnt in 1580 by protestants, then it has been rebuilt, and was carried away by the 1620 flood. A new bridge was built between 1766 and 1777 to replace the ferry that had been used for 150 years.
This charming town includes two different areas located on both sides of the Vézère river: on the right bank, the feudal town and its medieval narrow streets with their 14th, 15th and 16th century architecture: houses on piles, half-timbered houses, wash houses and springs, the typical yellow stones of which beautifully reflect the sun. On the left bank, the suburb with the convent and priory reminds us that Montignac used to be a harbour, a place of commerce and crafts during the Ancien Régime period. 

Hospitality remains the number one tradition of its inhabitants (3,101 today). In Montignac many celebrities were born, such has Eugène LE ROY, writer and author of «Jacquou Le Croquant», Joseph Joubert the moralist, or Pierre Lachambaudie, writer of tales…

Montignac, is also a place for gastronomy: the Lascaux cake is wonderful, and when you’re here it is as if you could smell the delicate aroma of King Henri IV’ “Poule au Pot”. When you come to Montignac, our tables d’hôtes and restaurants lead you to discover the numerous delicious recipes of our Perigord. But this is not the end of it!

Montignac and its area offer varied hiking paths, leisure activities and sites to be visited, of which, do not miss Lascaux II, the Regourdou, the Thot-Espace CroMagnon, the castles of Losse, and Sauveboeuf, theSaint-Amand de Coly Abbey, the shelters of La Roque Saint Christophe, the Paleontology museum and the Dinosaurs’ Park!

The cave was discovered on 12 September 1940 by four teenagers, Marcel Ravidat, Jacques Marsal, Georges Agnel, and Simon Coencas, as well as Ravidat’s dog, Robot. Public access was made easier after World War II. By 1955, the carbon dioxide produced by 1,200 visitors per day had visibly damaged the paintings. The cave was closed to the public in 1963 in order to preserve the art. After the cave was closed, the paintings were restored to their original state, and are now monitored on a daily basis. Rooms in the cave include The Great Hall of the Bulls, the Lateral Passage, the Shaft of the Dead Man, the Chamber of Engravings, the Painted Gallery, and the Chamber of Felines.

Lascaux II, a replica of two of the cave halls – the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery – was opened in 1983, 200 meters from the original. Reproductions of other Lascaux artwork can be seen at the Centre of Prehistoric Art at Le Thot, France.

The cave contains nearly 2,000 figures. Many are too faint to discern, while others have deteriorated. Over 900 can be identified as animals, and 605 of these have been precisely identified. There are also many geometric figures. Of the animals, horses predominate, with 364 images. There are 90 paintings of stags. Also represented are cattle and bison, each representing 4-5% of the images. A smattering of other images include seven felines, a bird, a bear, a rhinoceros, and a human. Among the most famous images are four huge, black bulls or aurochs in the Hall of the Bulls. There are no images of reindeer, even though that was the principal source of food for the artists.

The four black bulls are the dominant figures among the 36 animals represented in the Hall of the Bulls. One of the bulls is 17 feet long — the largest animal discovered so far in cave art. The bulls appear to be in motion. The most famous section of this cave is the great hall of the bulls, where there are bulls, horses, and stags.

A painting referred to as “The Crossed Bison” and found in the chamber called the Nave is often held as an example of the skill of the Paleolithic cave painters. The crossed hind legs show the ability to use perspective in a manner that wasn’t seen again until the 15th century.

• Atelier Musee des Tisserands et de la Charentaise
  Contained within the Castle of Varaignes, this working weaving museum and the museum of the Bandiat – Tardoire valleys offers a glimpse of local life in the 19th century. Located at Varaignes.Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Ateliers Musee
  A mineral and gem stone museum found at the foot of the Castelnaud Castle. Located in Vezac.
  Tel: 05 53 28 35 78
• Chateau de Beynac et Cazenac
  The Beynac and Cazenac Castle occupies a dominant position on the rocky cliffs overlooking the Dordogne river. Reconstructed by Lord Beynac it’s architecture dates from the 13th century.
  Tel: 05 53 29 50 40
• Chateau de Biron
  The Biron Castle dates from the 12th century. It was one of the 4 Perigord baronies and owned by the Gontaut-Biron family for 8 centuries. Located in Biron near Monpazier.
  Tel: 05 53 63 13 39
• Chateau de Bourdeilles
  Features a fortress from the 13th – 15th centuries. Offers an interesting collection of cupboards, carpets, wardrobes from the 16th and 17th centuries. Open throughout the year. Located near Brantome.
  Tel: 05 53 03 73 36
• Chateau de Bruzac
  The ruins of the Bruzac Castle can be found between st Pierre de Cole and St Jean
  Tel: 05 53 03 70 74
• Chateau de Castelnaud
  This reconstructed castle overlooks the Dordogne and faces the Chateau Marqueyssac. Built in the 12th century the Castle experienced British rule from 1259 -1273. See website for more details (in French).
  Tel: 05 53 31 30 00
  
• Chateau de Chabans
  The Chabans Castle has been owned by some of the most prominent families of Dordogne. The castle dates back to the 15th century. It played a role in the Resistance movement when Jacques Chaban-Delmas took his “nom de guerre” from the castle.
  Tel: 05 53 51 70 60
• Chateau de Duras
  Castle dated from the middle age offers an architecture mixing middle-age and the 18th century. Located in Duras, Lot et Garonne (47).
  Tel: 05 53 83 77 32
• Chateau de Fenelon
  At Ste. Mondain between Sarlat and Soillac (24). An opportunity to visit a furnished Chateaux with it’s antique furniture and historical architecture. Pets are not permitted.
  Tel: 05 53 29 81 45 Fax: 05 53 29 88 99
• Chateau de Fratteau
  The Fratteau Castle dominates domain of the new prison. Built in the 12th and 17th century it has preserved chimneys from the 15th and 16th century. Now also home to potters. Located at the exit of Neuvic sur l’Isle.
  Tel: 05 53 81 11 02
• Chateau de Hautefort
  A classical castle built in the 9th century on a rocky spur. It once belonged to the viscounts of Limoges and features the Long Tower, The Palm Tower and The Prison Tower. Located in Hautefort. See website for more details.
  Tel: 05 53 50 51 23
• Chateau de Jumilhac le Grand
  The castle was originally built in the 13th century and used to act as a line of defence during many incursions. Well known for its unique roofs that were built around the 1600’s. Located at Jumilhac Le Grand.
  Tel: 05 53 52 42 97
• Chateau de L’Herm
  The Herm Castle was built at the end of the 15th century but was abandoned. Today it is going through a period of restauration. See website for details. Located at Rouffignac Saint Cernin de Reilhac.
  Tel: 05 53 05 46 61
• Chateau de Lanquis
  A combination of architectural styles from palatial renaissance to a medieval fort created this elegant chateau. Well know for its chimneys. Open all year except from 15 January to 15 February.
  Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Mareuil
  The Mareuil Castle formed one of the four baronies of Perigord. Owned by the Talleyrand family, it comprised an effective defensive system. A visit to the castle takes one back to the 100 year war and is an excellent tribute to Napoleon. At Mareuil.
  Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Chateau de Monbazillac
  This 26th century chateau is home to a museum dedicated to wine-making, arts and local traditions, 17th century perigord furniture and protestanism. The 4 ha parc is open to the public. Open throughout the year. Call for times.
  Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Montfort
  The Montfort castle has been razed to the ground 4 times. Once in 1254 by Simon of Montfort, once during the 100 year war, once under Louis the 11th and finally under Henry the 4th. Restauration work has been underway since the 19th century.
  Tel: 05 53 28 57 80
• Chateau de Neuvic
  The Neuvic Castle was built in 1520 along the banks of the Isle. The architecture shows the transiton from Medieval Time to the Renaissance. Located at Neuvic sur l’Isle.
  Tel: 05 53 80 86 65
• Chateau de Puyferrat
  The Puyferrat Castle was built in the 16th century and features a totally covered walkway that offers a panoramic view onto the neighbouring countryside. A chapel that hosts the family vault was built in 1825. Located near St Astier.
  Tel: 05 53 07 86 26
• Chateau de Puyguilhem
  The Puyguilhem Castle was built during the First Renaissance and is a fine example of a Francoise 1st castle. Located near the village of Villars.
• Chateau de Puymartin
  The Puymartin Castle is be found between Sarlat and Les Eyzies. Occupied by the English in 1358 the castle has managed to preserve its furniture, carpets, paintings and other works for over 5 centuries. Tel: 05 53 59 29 97
• Chateau de Sanxet
  Located 3km west of Monbazillac, they offer a prestige car museum. They also rent rooms for receptions.
  Tel: 05 53 58 37 46
• Chateau de Sauveboeuf
  16th Century castle, classified as a national monument. Displays a Louis the 18th style. Located in Aubas near Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 51 89 46
• Chateau des Bernadiers
  Built on the side of a rocky slope around a high tower with views dominating Nizonne. This castle was no stranger to the 100 year war. The counts d’Aydie increased the castle and built terraces. Located at Champeaux et la Chapelle Pommier.
  Tel: 05 53 60 38 59
• Chateau des Bories
  Constructed on the banks of a river, the Bories Castle is an example of pure classical Perigourdian architecture. The castle dates from the 15th century. Located at Antonne et Trigonant near Perigueux. Tel: 05 53 06 00 01
• Chateau des Milandes
  At Castlenaud-la-Chapelle. A French chateau located in the heart of the Dordogne countryside with an exhibition relating to the life of Josephine Baker. There is also wildlife to discover on the castle grounds. 
  Tel: 05 53 59 31 21 Fax: 05 53 29 17 33
• Chateau et Jardins de Losse
  At Thonac (24). An opportunity to discover this 15th century castle and gardens of Losse.Take a tour around the moat and renaissance hall, which exhibit fine 16th & 17th century tapestries.
  Tel: 05 53 50 80 08 Fax: 05 53 50 80 08
• Chateau l’Eveque
  Located on the D939 north of Perigueux. The Bishops Castle was where Saint Vincent de Paul was ordained priest in the 1600’s.
  Tel: 05 53 04 66 84
• Chateau Saint Michel de Montaigne
  The Montaigne Castle dates back to the 15th century. This is where Saint Michael wrote his famous essays from. Located at Saint Michel de Montaigne.
  Tel: 05 53 58 63 69 Fax: 05 53 58 63 93
• Chateau Varaignes
  It’s facade boasts a mix of Medieval and Renaissance styles from the 13th and 16th century. The village bought the castle in 1965 and won an award for the restoration of the castel. Located in Varaignes.
  Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Cloiture des Recollets
  The House of Wine on Quai Salvette in Bergerac. This 17th century “Cloiture” exhibits the historical link between Bergerac wine and the history of Bergerac. Open June to September.
  Tel: 05 53 63 57 55
• Eco-musee de la Noix
  Walnut farm and museum located in the heart of the Perigord noir region. Documentary film in English shown. There is also a shop selling the local farm produce from walnut cakes to walnut wine.
  Tel: 05 53 59 69 63 Fax: 05 53 28 59 34
• Ecomusee de la Truffe
  Contains plenty of information regarding truffles. Located at Sorges.
  Tel: 05 53 05 90 11
• Institute du Tabac
  A tobacco research institute that has an extensive collection of different types of tobacco products. The institute opens its doors to the public in the summer. Located at Domaine de la Tour on route de Sainte-Alvére in Bergerac.
  Tel: 05 53 63 66 00
• Le Musee Costi
  A collection of works by the Greek sculptor Constantin Papachristopolous. Exhibited in a 12th century crypt in the Saint Jacques presbytery in Bergerac. Ask at the Mayor’s office for more details.
  Tel: 05 53 74 66 66.
• Le Musee du Perigord
  On Cours Tourny, Perigueux. An interesting presentation of fine arts and french archeology. There is also a zoological section. 
  Tel: 05 53 06 40 70 Fax: 05 53 06 40 71
• Le Musee du Thot
  The Thot Museum comprises an animal park and an exhibition centre. In the park one can see species of animal that closely resemble those that historically could be found there. Located at Thonac.
  Tel: 05 53 50 70 44
• Musee Atelier du Trompe-L’Oeil et du Decor Paint
  The Trompe-L’Oeil and Decorative Paint Museum is unique in Europe. It is possible to see demonstrations of work in progress. Located at 5 rue Emile Combes in Perigueux.
  Tel: 05 53 09 84 40
• Musee d’Histoire Locale
  The local history museum in Villefranche de Lonchat contains portraits, costumes and more. Located at Villefranche de Lonchat near Saint Michel de Montaigne. 
  Tel: 05 53 81 21 39
• Musee de Cognac
  A museum dedicated to manufacturing Cognac. The process is clearly explained and the tools clearly displayed. Located in St Aulaye.
  Tel: 05 53 90 81 33
• Musee de l’Or
  Located in the basement of the Castle of Jumilhac le Grand. The museum takes one back to Gaul times when gold was mined in the region.
  Tel: 05 53 52 55 43
• Musee de la Carte Postale Ancienne du Perigord
  The Historical Postcards Museum of Perigord offers more than 33 000 exhibits. Founded by Henry Brives. Located at Saint Pardoux la Riviere.
  Tel: 05 53 60 76 10
• Musee de la Ferblanterie
  Offers more than 1000 white & galvanised iron exhibits dating from the 18th century till today. At La Tour Blanche near Riberac.
  Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee de la Medicine
  This medical museum in Hautefort, is housed in what was known as a poorhouse that housed local destitutes. The building was finished in 1740 and now hosts the tourist office, a weavers workshop and the medicam museum. See website for more details. 
  Tel: 05 53 50 40 27
• Musee de la Paleontologie et de la Vie Sauvage
  Includes 3000 articles of paleonthology covering 700 million years. The Musee de la Vie Sauvage boasts more than 1000 stuffed exhibits. Open June to September. Located at 9 rue de la Republic in La Bugue sur Vezere. 
  Tel: 05 53 08 28 10
• Musee de la Pierre Taillee
  This sculptured stone museum displays stomes from the Paleothique and Neolithique periods. 
  Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Musee de la Prehistoire.
  Offres visitors an original projection room amongst the rocks. Offer various examples of sculptured rocks and Magdalenian art. Located at Teyjat. 
  Tel: 05 53 56 30 29
   
• Musee des Arts et Traditions Populaires
  The Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions in Mussidan assembled this collection of artifacts from yesteryear including furniture and other objects. 
  Tel: 05 53 81 23 55
• Musee des Records 
  situated in the “salle polyvalent”, it offers a light hearted history of the songs that featured for the town’s annual August festival. Located at La Tour Blanche near Riberac. 
  Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee des Rois d’Araucanie
  The Museum of the King of Araucanie celebrates Antoine de Tounens who left for Patagonia in 1860 where he declared himself king. He was expelled by the Chilean police in 1860. Medals and official documentation are on show. Located in Chourgnac near Sorge 
  Tel: 05 53 51 12 76
• Musee du Foie Gras
  Discover how geese and ducks are raised, how “Foie Gras” is processed and learn about how to prepare it. At place de Marechal Foch, Thiviers, Dordogne (24).
  Tel: 05 53 55 12 50
• Musee du Suaire
  The relic of St Suaire is to be found in the Cadouin Abbey. Built in 1115, the abbey has recently been declared a world heritage site. Located in Cadouin.
  Tel: 05 53 63 36 28
• Musee du Tabac
  A tobacco museum located at Place du Feu in Bergerac. Displays a large selection of tobacco paraphernalia. Open in season. 
  Tel: 05 53 63 04 13
• Musee du Ver a Soie
  An interesting and educational silkworm museum. Located at Saint Just near Riberac. 
  Tel: 05 53 90 73 60
• Musee du Vin de la Tonnellerie et de la Batellerie
  A museum dedicated to the making of wine barrels and related objects. Located at 5 rue des Conferences in Bergerac.
  Tel: 05 53 57 80 92
• Musee Eugene le Roy
  To be found in the old Saint Jean l’Evangeliste Hospital. It is dedicated to the writings of Eugene Le Roy who died in the city in 1907. Displays his writings, photos, clothing and other souvenirs. Located in Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 51 82 60
• Musee Fossiles
  The Fossil Museum features a 5.5m high and 11m long metalique sculpture of a Tyrannosaurus-Rex amongst other exhibits. Located in Peyzac le Moustier near Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 50 81 02
• Musee Gallo Romain Vesunna
  At Rue 26eme RI, Perigueux. Conceived by Jean Nouvel, this museum presents one of the most significant archeological remains in Aquitaine. 
  Tel: 05 53 53 00 92
• Musee Militaire du Perigord
  The Perigord Military Museum is at 32 Rue des Farges, Perigueux. Presents over 13000 pieces on French military history. 
  Tel: 05 53 53 47 36
• Musee Napoleon
  An opportunity to visit the Museum of Napoleon and to view his family history. Situated within the grounds of Chateau de la Pommerie in the heart of Cendrieux, Dordogne (24). 
  Tel: 05 53 03 24 03 Fax: 05 53 03 22 39
• Musee National de Prehistoire
  Offers an extremelly comprehensive and chronologically ordered exhibition covering the Paleolithic period. Located at Les Eyzies.
  Tel: 05 53 06 45 45 Fax: 05 53 06 45 55

• Corrèze: Pérols-sur-Vézère, Bugeat, Uzerche, Vigeois, Brive-la-Gaillarde
• Dordogne: Montignac, Terrasson-Lavilledieu, Les Eyzies deTayac, Le Bugue , Limeuil

The trip takeS 5 days 4 nights, and the nights are spent “Wild Camping” on Islands and alongside the river.
The groups are a min. 2 and max 6 people.

The trip will run from 26 April -30 June and 01 September – October 26. ( No trips in July and August )

More info visit www.walkingdordogne.com

Locations

Communes of Les Eyzies de Tayac, Tursac, Montignac-sur-Vézère, Saint-Leon-sur-Vézère, Marquay, Manaurie-Rouffignac and Saint-Cirq-du Bugue, Department of the Dordogne, Region of Aquitaine
N45 3 27 E1 10 12

Theory

The Vézère Valley is on a limestone plateau in Southwestern France. It is home to several hidden calcareous caves. This is Lascaux Cave, the most well known. These drawings here date back to the Paleolithic period around 17,000 years ago. The cave was closed in 1972 for preservation work.

Subsequently decorated grottoes of the Vézère Valley including this Lascaux cave have been inscribed on the list of World Heritage. In this drawing, the front foot of the horse was drawn over the bulky rock surface to give a solid impression. The technique is used to express a galloping horse. This drawing of cattle has many layers. The front red figure is a cow, and behind her is black ox with large horns.

Why did man start to draw? Dr. Michel Lorblanchet has proposed a new theory through practical archaeology that takes account of the painting materials and artistic techniques of the time. He put charcoal in his mouth and sprays it onto the wall, exactly as people during the Paleolithic period used to do. By blowing onto the rocks, they believed that it would breathe life into something inside it. People in those days believed that some kind of supernatural power existed inside the rocks. They tried to capture this great power by projecting images of wild animals onto them. Signs of human imagination have been found here. This unicorn is drawn on the closest wall from the entrance of the Lascaux cave.

People stopped painting in these caves about 10000 years ago. Once they had mastered the skills of stock farming, they started to regard themselves as superior to other animals and with that change the Great Spirit in the caves was gradually forgotten.

1. Lascaux II- Lascaux is considered to be the number one prehistoric site in all of Europe. The paintings on the site date from 17,000 to 15,000 years ago. Shortly after that the cave entrances were closed by mudslides or other natural means, and thus the paintings were perfectly preserved until the modern era. The cave was rediscovered in 1940 by two local boys who were chasing their dog, and several years later it was opened to the public. However, in 1963 it was closed again, as it was discovered that too many people in the cave were causing the paintings to deteriorate. Since then only a few scientists, scholars or art historians per day were allowed in for several hours maximum. For the past few years even those limited visits have been stopped, as new signs of further deterioration have been observed. The French government, however, took up a 10 year project to make an exact duplicate of the cave. This effort, which opened in 1983, uses exactly the same pigments that were used by the Cro-Magnon artists thousands of years ago, and is dimensionally accurate to less than one inch of error. It is called Lascaux II, and is located only about 400 yards from the original cave.

The quality of the artwork is the main reason that Lascaux is considered the finest example of prehistoric cave paintings. Done with only oil lamps for light and using high scaffolding, the prehistoric artists who created this site were highly accomplished artists. Most of the guided visits to Lascaux II are conducted in French, but there are tours in English on most days. One needs to call the Lascaux ticket office in Montignac or the Montignac Office of Tourism to find out if and when there is an English tour on any given day. If you have a group they will probably set up an English tour for you and other English speakers, but this needs to be arranged in advance through the ticket office. Even though Lascaux II is a replica and not the original, it is very well done, very informative, and not to be missed.

2. St. Leon sur Vezere- This is another of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”. Built in a picturesque loop of the Vezere river, this charming village possesses two castles and one of the finest Romanesque churches of the Perigord. The church was part of a Benedictine priory which was founded in the 12th century. It was built on the ruins of a Gallo-Roman villa. The remains of one of the villa’s walls can be seen on the river side. There is a picnic area next to the church on the banks of the river, and a café is nearby as well. This is an excellent spot to have a pleasant lunch or a refreshing drink.

3. La Roque St. Christophe (St. Christopher’s Rock) is a huge Troglodyte cave complex. For about a half mile in length this majestic cliff rises vertically above the Vezere valley to a height of over 250ft. It is like a huge hive with about 100 caves hollowed out of the rock on five tiers. Excavations have proved that the cliff dwellings were inhabited from the Upper Paleolithic Age onwards. In the 10th century the cliff terraces served as the foundation for a fortress which was used against the Vikings, and again later during the Hundred Years War. It was subsequently destroyed during the Wars of Religion at the end of the 16th century. The self-guided tour explains the evolution of human life at La Roque St. Christophe, which took place over many centuries . In fact even Neanderthal fossils have been found at this site and at other locations nearby.

4. Chateau de Losse- This renaissance chateau sits on the right bank of the Vezere river, and it has a large terrace that overlooks the river and offers picturesque views. The chateau is well known for its excellent furniture and tapestries, which can be seen on the guided tours. The tours are in French, but foreign language guides are available, and these are easy to follow so one does not miss anything. The tours are quite good, and one can also visit the well kept gardens and stroll around the outside of the chateau in the former moat area.

As stated earlier, these four venues in the Vezere Valley between Les Eyzies de Tayac and Montignac can easily be visited in one day, since they are relatively close and do not take too long to visit any of them. If one is staying nearby, in Les Eyzies de Tayac, for example, only about 25 kilometers away, a visit to these sites is well worth the effort.

Caves decorated with art from the late Paleolithic period, approximately 10,000 to 30,000 years ago, have been found only in France, Spain, Italy, Portugal, Russia and Mongolia. The largest cluster of Paleolithic art caves dot the Dordogne department of southwestern France the Vezere Valley, which is honeycombed ,with limestone caves and towering cliff shelters eaten out by glaciers and underground rivers as long as 140 million years ago. In this underground network, with constant temperature and humidity and isolation from light, the art has been very well preserved.

The most exciting sites open to visitors in the Dordogne include Lascaux, Font-de-Gaume, with drawings of bison, horses and deer; Combarelles, where Stone Age people left more than 300 engravings, and Cap Blanc, offering 14 animals gracefully sculptured in deep relief.

Cave art had been seen by villagers as least as far back as the 16th century, according to graffiti in the vast cavern at Rouffignac. But it was assumed to be modern until an explorer announced in 1880 that the paintings in the Altamira cave were prehistoric.

The notion of art as ancient as 30,000 years before the birth of Christ was met with skepticism on the ground that it conflicted with Christian belief. Only in the 20th century did scientists agree that humans indeed discovered how to artfully draw, sculpture and carve engravings during the Stone Age.

The Louvre of all the caverns is Lascaux. The cave entrance, less than a mile south of Montignac on the Vezere River, was sealed from harmful air for centuries by landslides. After trees covering the entrance were uprooted by a storm, four teen-agers seeking buried treasure discovered the cave in 1940.

Opened to tourists in 1948, Lascaux had to be closed in 1963 after green algae and white calcium deposits attacked the paintings. An exact copy built in cement nearby was inaugurated in November 1984. The cement cannot be harmed by bacteria and outside air and the paintings are covered with a transparent film.

Contrary to widespread belief, the original Lascaux, guarded by a wire fence and two German shepherds, can be seen by qualified people. Applicants connected with science, journalism, teaching, art, museums, even politics, have received invitations after waiting for months.

On an authorized visit one recent day, a guide, Jacques Marsal, led the way past the dogs and wooden towers with instruments that record humidity, temperature and air pressure in the cave, monitored by the Pasteur Institute in Paris. Visitors must wet the soles of their shoes in antiseptic and descend to the dark, cold cave through three anterooms that keep out air. Then the electric lights go on, and the stereotype of the Stone Age brute is crushed. The cave gleams with delicate drawings in ocher and brick red, outlined in deepest black by artists who were obviously sensitive people. Deer with graceful horns, drawn with sensual lines, recall works of Picasso. The guide’s flashlight plays on a splendid herd of deer, apparently clambering out of water, each with a different expression, each in a different position.

On the cold stone walls, a calf stumbles before a three-sided square that could depict a trap. A horse falls over a cliff, its face showing fright, possibly depicting organized stampedes to slaughter animals.

”The artists painted the outline of each animal all in one movement without hesitation, quite a feat,” says the guide.

The final shock is emerging from the Stone Age cave to see white trails from jet fighters crisscrossing the blue sky. A two-minute walk downhill stands Lascaux II, the cement reproduction built by the owner of the land and the state, now the proprietor.

Molded above ground by 12 Brazilian, Greek and French sculptors over nine years, the cave is a feat in itself as the cement truly resembles rock. A French artist worked seven years with prehistoric tools and pigments to copy the paintings from photographs. The copiers even repeated holes where the prehistoric artists had inserted logs to stand on so they could reach a high ceiling to paint a circle of horses reminiscent of Chinese art.

The reproduction is impressive. But the ancient Lascaux, like any original artwork, is worth the wait. Lascaux II lacks the impact of antiquity, and the drawings appear flat because the real Lascaux walls glisten with crystals.

Some 200 paintings and 1,500 engravings decorate Lascaux I, which is 819 feet long. Lascaux II, 131 feet long, displays 100 or so paintings and no engravings.

Those startling handprints are a frequent motif in art of the late Paleolithic period. Handprints fringe paintings in the Pech Merle grotto, including one of a black polka-dotted horse. Two hundred fifteen handprints, usually of the left hand, decorate the Gargas cave in the Hautes-Pyrenees department near Spain.

Experts say 11 footprints at Pech Merle were those of a woman and child. They believe women and children often visited the caves to see the art, or to worship. The caves are believed to have been sanctuaries, devoted to the worship of animals, magic or the hunt, but scientists do not know for sure. The guides emphasize that prehistoric people were not ”cave men.” Because of the dampness of grottos and the need to build fires, Cro-Magnon people lived only at cave entrances, in minuscule caves or under overhangs of giant cliffs.

Patterns emerge in their art. Most of the subjects are grass-eaters such as horses, bison, deer, reindeer and ibex. Less numerous are meat-eating mammoths and rhinoceroses, which once roamed France, boars, wolves and fox, plus fish, birds and reptiles. A fish was engraved on the ceiling of a riverside shelter north of Les Eyzies, a Dordogne town dotted with prehistoric sites that calls itself the Prehistoric Capital of the World.

Drawings of humans are rare and not realistic. Men appear more often than women (although many prehistoric statuettes of women have been dug from sites throughout the world). In Lascaux, a man falls dead before a bull pierced with a spear, its entrails dangling. Arrows were thrust into men drawn at Lascaux, Pech Merle and Cougnac, north of Cahors. Evidence of war? Experts say flints have not been found in Paleolithic skeletons, but they have in later Neolithic graves after agriculture was discovered and people became property owners, and thus could have been defenders and aggressors.

The Cro-Magnons painted under the light of small stone lamps, which have been found in cave digs. They applied charcoal, ocher or red and yellow pigments of oxidized iron with brushes or their fingers or dabbed on colors with fur or blew them through tubes. Engravings were made with bone, horn or stone.

The art is seldom seen near cave entrances, perhaps for religious reasons – or because paintings near airy entrances did not last. The gigantic grotto at Rouffignac offers a mile and a half ride on a small train to view paintings of mammoths, some overdrawn with graffiti of modern explorers.

At Cap Blanc, near Les Eyzies, a 14,000-year-old frieze of five horses, carved in relief, rivaling those of ancient Greece, was even more ruined by the pickaxes of overenthusiastic diggers in the 20’s.

A visitor can see the major Paleolithic caves in the Dordogne within a week.

Most tours are in French, although descriptive pamphlets in English, Spanish and German are sold in most grottos. Large luxury chain hotels are absent, in favor of small, comfortable hotels.

Perigord and Quercy restaurants serve local specialties such as foie gras, truffles, walnuts and wild mushrooms. Canoeing and swimming in rivers and visiting more chateaus than are found in the Loire valley are other temptations.

But the passion for prehistory is catching. At La Madeleine, a site near Les Eyzies, prehistoric families lived in a riverside cliff shelter to be near fish. In the ninth century, about 80 people lived higher up, apparently so they could hurl stones on invading Vikings. The visitor turns away from the cliffside village, disappointed. Ninth century? That’s modern.