All around this monumental frieze, a museographical area provides the visitor with an overview of Cap Blanc life and art. Objects, pictures, and a fresco tell the story of Prehistoric sculptors throughout Europe.

The limestone rock shelter of Cap Blanc, near Laussel, northeast of Les Eyzies in France’s Dordogne region, is well known to the world of prehistory as the site of one of the finest sculptured friezes to survive the last Ice Age, the first to be unearthed, and currently the best to remain open to the public. Its figures of horses, bison and deer, albeit found in a much damaged condition at the time of their discovery by Dr. Gaston Lalanne of Bordeaux in 1909, remain a moving and powerful ensemble. Lalanne dug here and unearthed a fine collection of typical Magdalenian – about 15 000 years old – stone, bone and antler tools, including harpoons, and a number of large stone implements that had clearly been used to produce the parietal bas-relief and haut-relief sculptures that his crude excavations brought to light on the back wall. (Ed: Parietal – term used to describe artwork done on cave walls or large blocks of stone, as opposed to portable art, such as most of the venuses)

In 1911, further digging in front of the shelter for the purpose of erecting a small construction to enclose and protect the frieze and for lowering the floor level to make the art more visible to visitors led to the discovery of a human skull. Work was suspended and prehistorians Louis Capitan and Denis Peyrony were asked to extract the skeleton, a task that took them three days.

The Cap Blanc skeleton is of tremendous importance – not only a relatively intact inhumation from the late Ice Age but also one of the very few found in close proximity to parietal art of the period.

Indeed, the body’s location directly in front of the central part of the shelter’s sculptured frieze can really only be compared with that of the double paleolithic inhumation of an adult woman buried with her arm around a 17-year-old male dwarf in front of the engraved block at the Riparo di Romito, Italy. It was suggested by the excavators that the Cap Blanc burial may even be that of the original sculptor (or one of them), and this is unquestionably a possibility; certainly the location of the inhumation indicates a person with a strong link to the site.

Conflicting Reports

In France, the excavation of the skeleton in 1911 led to a brief publication that discussed primarily the two skeletons unearthed at La Ferrassie by the same excavators. They gave few details about the Cap Blanc find, stating only that the skeleton lay at the bottom of the archaeological deposit, 2. 3 meters from the frieze and 60 centimeters below the hooves of the central horse. It had been buried amid stones, with three fairly big stones placed above it, one of them on its head and others at its feet. It had been placed on its left side, arms and legs flexed, occupying a space of only 3 feet by 2 feet (1 meter by 60 centimeters), immediately below a Magdalenian hearth.

It is curious that early reports of the Cap Blanc skeleton claimed that it was of a male aged about 25, whereas examination by physical anthropologists eventually established that it was of a young adult female.

A recent examination of the field Museum’s archive on the case made it possible to reconstruct much of the story. The earliest document in the archive is a letter, dated January 24, 1911, to Monsieur J. Grimaud, the site’s owner, from the president of the Société des Antiquaires de 1′Ouest in Poitiers, acknowledging receipt of a report on the rock shelters of Laussel (i.e. Cap Blanc) together with photos and five boxes, one containing reindeer teeth and bones and the other four containing flint tools. A letter, dated August 5, 1911, from Paul Leon, at the Ministère de l’Instruction Publique et des Beaux-Arts in Paris, thanks M. Grimaud for reporting the discovery of the skeleton and states that he will ask Peyrony to take appropriate measures to preserve it. Peyrony himself (the Membre Correspondant de la Commission des Monuments Historiques aux Eyzies) writes on August 8 that the Minister has asked him to verify the authenticity of the Laussel skeleton, make all necessary scientific observations, and supervise the excavation. He therefore went to the site that very morning and examined the find in the presence of Grimaud’s guard, Veyret. The remains were indeed authentic.

Only two days later, Grimaud received a letter from Dr. Capitan, professor at the Collège de France, dated August 10, which is a key document for the site. The letter contains a sketch of the location of the bones and reports that they are 2. 3 metres from the big horse and around 70 centimetres below its muzzle. They occupy a kind of pit, 50 centimetres deep, and the skull was unfortunately broken by a blow from a workman’s pickaxe.

Capitan insists, rightly, that the excavation be carried out by experienced and qualified people and suggests himself and Peyrony for the task, as they have just unearthed the two older skeletons from La Ferrassie. To make matters clear, he proposes that the excavators produce the scientific report, while any finds would belong to Grimaud. In the meantime, the skeleton has been covered with stones and planks for its protection.

A new letter from Capitan, dated August 28, reports that the skeleton has been removed in its entirety in a number of blocks of earth, and it will now be possible to excavate the bones properly and carefully, once Peyrony has transported them to Paris by rail, probably in September or October. For the present, these blocks are in Peyrony’s care, and he will dry them out slowly. Most important is a brief sentence, stating that “All we found with the skeleton was a shapeless fragment. probably of ivory.” This is indeed a small ivory point measuring 0. 6 by 3 by 0. 4inches (16 by 74 by 10 millimetres), which is kept at the Field Museum, having been sold along with the skeleton.

It is described as “several thin laminae glued together along with bits of matrix and partially reconstructed or plastered over with some sort of filling material.” According to its original display case label, this point was “found over the abdominal cavity of this individual” and “the weapon may have been the cause of death. ”

This is certainly the theory that was promoted by Henry Field, the eventual acquirer of the skeleton for the museum. He claimed in a 1927 article that the skeleton died a natural death, yet also noted: A small ivory harpoon-point found lying just above the abdomen may give a possible clue to the cause of his death. This weapon may have caused blood poisoning which resulted in death. It has been suggested tentatively that the young man [sic] felt death approaching and returned to the rock-shelter, as he desired to die before the masterpiece he had helped to create. . . It is not plausible that some one who had nothing to do with the sculpture should have been allowed to desecrate the sanctuary unless he had assisted in the work or, at any rate, was directly connected with it.

In Field’s memoirs, his speculations were even more romantic: “Why had she been buried beneath the frieze of horses? Was she killed by her lover’s ivory lance point? Was it by another Cro-Magnon girl? Was her brother avenging the family’s honor? Was she killed in battle? Why was she buried in the sanctuary? Was she the daughter of the sculptor-high priest? There was no real evidence, except that death probably resulted from blood poisoning.”

No source is given for the theory that the ivory point was the cause of death or the claim that it was found above the abdomen – perhaps this was merely M. Grimaud’s opinion – but nevertheless it is baffling that such a potentially important object was completely omitted from the published report by Capitan and Peyrony. Indeed, were it not for this casual mention in Capitan’s letter, there would be absolutely no guarantee THE CAP BLANC LADY that the point had any connection with the Cap Blanc skeleton. Yet ivory is not common in Magdalenian contexts in southwest France, let alone ivory points that may be a cause of death. In this connection, it is worth noting that the only clear evidence we have of violence inflicted on humans during the last Ice Age consists of a probable flint arrowhead embedded in the pelvis of an adult woman from San Teodoro Cave, Sicily, and an arrowhead in the vertebra of a child from the Grotte des Enfants at Balzi Rossi, Italy.

A letter to Grimaud from Peyrony, dated August 31, 1911, notes that”we have been able to lift the whole thing in a pretty good state. The whole skeleton will be able to be reconstructed and will be a very good study piece. I have conserved it in Les Eyzies, as Mr Capitan was not able to take it. I will carry it to Paris next October. ” However, it is clear that Capitan had major problems in getting the skeleton dealt with in Paris. Letters from him complain of the difficulty in finding someone qualified and with sufficient time available to prepare the bones for casting and display. It is also interesting to learn that there were plans afoot to have a cast made and placed in the shelter; in fact, for some reason this was never done, and instead a miscellaneous collection of casts of other bones was put together for this purpose. In a letter dated July 29, 1913, Capitan tells Grimaud that an artist will be sent to carry out this assignment. A letter from Grimaud in 1924 notes that “in accordance with the Ministere des Beaux Arts, I have had a modern skeleton set in place at the foot of the sculptures, in place of the real skeleton. ”

Nevertheless, the original skeleton was eventually extracted from its sediments by J. Papoint of the Laboratoire de Paleontologie at the Musee National d’Histoire Naturelle under the direction of Marcellin Boule(director of the museum) and of Capitan. A letter from Papoint, dated February 27, 1915, records the state of the bones:

You will find the skull in the wooden box. It is in two pieces. It was impossible for me to reconstruct it because of the deformation caused by fossilisation. I left in the same block the upper and lower jaws as well as the seven cervical vertebrae which I extracted as well as I could. There are two upper incisors that I put to one side, since I could not fit them in their sockets. These two skull pieces are very fragile and need to be unpacked with care. The dorsal and lumbar vertebrae are all present. The ribs are incomplete. All the limb bones are in good condition. A few fragments of the shoulder-blades and pelvis bones are missing. This is due to the fragility of certain parts of these bones. A few phalanges are missing from the hands and feet.
The Sale of the Bones
By early 1915, the Cap Blanc skeleton had been restored to its owner. Monsieur Grimaud. It then disappeared from view until the start of his attempt to sell it to an American museum nine years later. According to Henry Field, “in 1916 M. Grimaud, having made no money out of the discoveries on his property, decided to reclaim his anticipated profit, and during the stress of war conditions was able to ship the skeleton to New York.” In his later memoirs, he added that “the skeleton was said to have been smuggled out of France during World War I in a coffin as an American soldier with the necessary papers forged.” Yet documentation available at the Field Museum provides no real clue as to why Grimaud decided to send it to America, or why he apparently waited a further eight years before trying to sell it. His initial choice was the American Museum of Natural History in New York, but, to cut a long story short, his protracted negotiations, via American lawyers in Paris, eventually came to nothing, in part because of his huge asking price ($12, 000, equivalent to about $250, 000today).

Finally, after steadily dropping his price, he sold it to Chicago’s Field Museum for a much lower amount. According to Field’s memoirs, a representative of the museum was sent to Monsieur Grimaud “with twenty-five thousand-franc bills (the equivalent of a thousand dollars) in one hand and a receipt ready for signature in the other. ” He continues, “Some days later a cable came from Paris saying that the Cap-Blanc skeleton was ours. I hurried to New York and in the basement of the Museum of Natural History packed her very carefully in cotton wool and carried her in a suitcase to a compartment on the Twentieth Century [train]. We had a very uneventful night together. ”

With the benefit of hindsight, Field’s memoirs claim that, as he laid out the bones in Chicago, “the pelvic girdle was definitely feminine” – yet, as noted above, his article of 1927 still saw the skeleton as a young man! The skeleton in its new case was first displayed prominently just inside the museum’s main entrance.

It was introduced to the media as “the only prehistoric skeleton in the United States”, and so became front-page news. The first day, 22 000 visitors came to see for themselves. At noon, the crowd was so dense around her that the captain of the guard. . . notified the director that two guards must be placed there to keep the people moving and orderly. . . . Nothing like this had happened before in the Field Museum. . . . This was the first exhibit in the new building to capture the public and press imagination. ”

In 1932, the skeleton was withdrawn from exhibition so that the skull could be restored by T. Ito under the direction of Gerhardt von Bonin of the Department of Anatomy at the University of Illinois. According to von Bonin:

When the skeleton arrived at the Museum, it was in an almost perfectly clean condition, only a few bones being still embedded in a matrix of somewhat gritty, loam-like matter. The long bones were almost all perfectly preserved. The pelvic and the shoulder girdle were somewhat damaged, particularly in the pubic region and the scapula. The vertebral column appeared to be complete, the vertebrae were for the most part still held together by adhering soil. Twelve left and ten right ribs were found, and a rather decayed square piece of bone, apparently all that was left from the manubrium sterni. The cervical column was firmly attached to the lower jaw and a part of the upper jaw.

The skull was broken into a number of fragments. The bones are of a brownish colour, darker in some spots and lighter in others. They are firm enough to be handled conveniently, yet somewhat brittle. In some spots, dental cement had been put on the bones in order to prevent them from crumbling.

Von Bonin’s conclusion, after a full anatomical study, was that these were the remains of a young woman, about 5 feet, 1 inch (156 centimeters) tall and about 20 years of age.

In an exhibition case next to the skeleton, the museum installed a life-size diorama of the Cap Blanc rock shelter, modeled by Frederick Blaschke. As the only complete European paleolithic skeleton on exhibition in an American museum, the Cap Blanc woman was seen by several million visitors in her first decade in Chicago alone. But the story does have a happy ending of sorts.

Thanks to the generosity of a private sponsor, a complete cast of the Cap Blanc lady – and of her ivory point  was made, and on July 14, 2001, the cast was installed in its rightful place beneath the central frieze in France.

 The cast of the Cap Blanc lady, restored to her original resting place in front of the center of the carved frieze on July 14, 2001.

The cave was discovered on 12 September 1940 by four teenagers, Marcel Ravidat, Jacques Marsal, Georges Agnel, and Simon Coencas, as well as Ravidat’s dog, Robot. Public access was made easier after World War II. By 1955, the carbon dioxide produced by 1,200 visitors per day had visibly damaged the paintings. The cave was closed to the public in 1963 in order to preserve the art. After the cave was closed, the paintings were restored to their original state, and are now monitored on a daily basis. Rooms in the cave include The Great Hall of the Bulls, the Lateral Passage, the Shaft of the Dead Man, the Chamber of Engravings, the Painted Gallery, and the Chamber of Felines.

Lascaux II, a replica of two of the cave halls – the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery – was opened in 1983, 200 meters from the original. Reproductions of other Lascaux artwork can be seen at the Centre of Prehistoric Art at Le Thot, France.

The cave contains nearly 2,000 figures. Many are too faint to discern, while others have deteriorated. Over 900 can be identified as animals, and 605 of these have been precisely identified. There are also many geometric figures. Of the animals, horses predominate, with 364 images. There are 90 paintings of stags. Also represented are cattle and bison, each representing 4-5% of the images. A smattering of other images include seven felines, a bird, a bear, a rhinoceros, and a human. Among the most famous images are four huge, black bulls or aurochs in the Hall of the Bulls. There are no images of reindeer, even though that was the principal source of food for the artists.

The four black bulls are the dominant figures among the 36 animals represented in the Hall of the Bulls. One of the bulls is 17 feet long — the largest animal discovered so far in cave art. The bulls appear to be in motion. The most famous section of this cave is the great hall of the bulls, where there are bulls, horses, and stags.

A painting referred to as “The Crossed Bison” and found in the chamber called the Nave is often held as an example of the skill of the Paleolithic cave painters. The crossed hind legs show the ability to use perspective in a manner that wasn’t seen again until the 15th century.

He quickly climbed up to discover a small crack giving way to a slow flowing spring. Unaware of the origin of this flow, this inquiring mind rapidly imagined that a hidden cavity might reveal the source. After two years of hard work and a last mining foray on April 29, 1924, Jean Maury, his sister and daughter, entered the untouched cave.

“Shouts of joy and the national anthem first saluted the discovery. We could admire marvellous stalactites, whereas other strange forms, very clear and surprising, looked as if they had never been seen by anyone before, and others seemed to come straight out of unrealizable dreams – until the candles we used to light up the way began to be too small for us to continue. But at what point had we entered the cave? We passed this column again with the form of a cross, which we identified as the central point. After groping along for a while, we heard our parents calling and followed their voices to find, at last, the fox hole through which we had come. Drained of all anxiety, we presented ourselves proudly in our soaked clothes spattered with mud, filled with enthusiasm by what we had seen.”

The Grand Roc cave opened in 1927; following the discovery, 3 years were necessary to install the interior and the exterior of the cave.

The first visitors only had candles, hence a quite picturesque visit, during which not much could be seen. Acetylene lamps came later and in 1934 the electricity was installed. In 1993, the lighting of the cave was entirely reorganized. Engineers managed to conciliate the various features of the site (fragility, difficult access, necessary preservation) with a genuine artistic mise en scène of all crystallizations.

Also on the site is an archaeological museum, and about 20 semi-wild bears that roam around a naturalized habitat that’s barricaded against humans. The only way to experience this site (including the museum) is on a guided tour, conducted in both French and English. Tours depart frequently.

Location: About 450m (1,500 ft.) uphill from Lascaux I (the original caves) in Lascaux
Phone: 05-53-51-81-23
Hours: July-Aug daily 9am-7pm; Sept-June daily 11am-6pm
Cost: 4.50€ adults, 3€ children 6-12, free for children under 6

• Atelier Musee des Tisserands et de la Charentaise
  Contained within the Castle of Varaignes, this working weaving museum and the museum of the Bandiat – Tardoire valleys offers a glimpse of local life in the 19th century. Located at Varaignes.Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Ateliers Musee
  A mineral and gem stone museum found at the foot of the Castelnaud Castle. Located in Vezac.
  Tel: 05 53 28 35 78
• Chateau de Beynac et Cazenac
  The Beynac and Cazenac Castle occupies a dominant position on the rocky cliffs overlooking the Dordogne river. Reconstructed by Lord Beynac it’s architecture dates from the 13th century.
  Tel: 05 53 29 50 40
• Chateau de Biron
  The Biron Castle dates from the 12th century. It was one of the 4 Perigord baronies and owned by the Gontaut-Biron family for 8 centuries. Located in Biron near Monpazier.
  Tel: 05 53 63 13 39
• Chateau de Bourdeilles
  Features a fortress from the 13th – 15th centuries. Offers an interesting collection of cupboards, carpets, wardrobes from the 16th and 17th centuries. Open throughout the year. Located near Brantome.
  Tel: 05 53 03 73 36
• Chateau de Bruzac
  The ruins of the Bruzac Castle can be found between st Pierre de Cole and St Jean
  Tel: 05 53 03 70 74
• Chateau de Castelnaud
  This reconstructed castle overlooks the Dordogne and faces the Chateau Marqueyssac. Built in the 12th century the Castle experienced British rule from 1259 -1273. See website for more details (in French).
  Tel: 05 53 31 30 00
  
• Chateau de Chabans
  The Chabans Castle has been owned by some of the most prominent families of Dordogne. The castle dates back to the 15th century. It played a role in the Resistance movement when Jacques Chaban-Delmas took his “nom de guerre” from the castle.
  Tel: 05 53 51 70 60
• Chateau de Duras
  Castle dated from the middle age offers an architecture mixing middle-age and the 18th century. Located in Duras, Lot et Garonne (47).
  Tel: 05 53 83 77 32
• Chateau de Fenelon
  At Ste. Mondain between Sarlat and Soillac (24). An opportunity to visit a furnished Chateaux with it’s antique furniture and historical architecture. Pets are not permitted.
  Tel: 05 53 29 81 45 Fax: 05 53 29 88 99
• Chateau de Fratteau
  The Fratteau Castle dominates domain of the new prison. Built in the 12th and 17th century it has preserved chimneys from the 15th and 16th century. Now also home to potters. Located at the exit of Neuvic sur l’Isle.
  Tel: 05 53 81 11 02
• Chateau de Hautefort
  A classical castle built in the 9th century on a rocky spur. It once belonged to the viscounts of Limoges and features the Long Tower, The Palm Tower and The Prison Tower. Located in Hautefort. See website for more details.
  Tel: 05 53 50 51 23
• Chateau de Jumilhac le Grand
  The castle was originally built in the 13th century and used to act as a line of defence during many incursions. Well known for its unique roofs that were built around the 1600’s. Located at Jumilhac Le Grand.
  Tel: 05 53 52 42 97
• Chateau de L’Herm
  The Herm Castle was built at the end of the 15th century but was abandoned. Today it is going through a period of restauration. See website for details. Located at Rouffignac Saint Cernin de Reilhac.
  Tel: 05 53 05 46 61
• Chateau de Lanquis
  A combination of architectural styles from palatial renaissance to a medieval fort created this elegant chateau. Well know for its chimneys. Open all year except from 15 January to 15 February.
  Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Mareuil
  The Mareuil Castle formed one of the four baronies of Perigord. Owned by the Talleyrand family, it comprised an effective defensive system. A visit to the castle takes one back to the 100 year war and is an excellent tribute to Napoleon. At Mareuil.
  Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Chateau de Monbazillac
  This 26th century chateau is home to a museum dedicated to wine-making, arts and local traditions, 17th century perigord furniture and protestanism. The 4 ha parc is open to the public. Open throughout the year. Call for times.
  Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Montfort
  The Montfort castle has been razed to the ground 4 times. Once in 1254 by Simon of Montfort, once during the 100 year war, once under Louis the 11th and finally under Henry the 4th. Restauration work has been underway since the 19th century.
  Tel: 05 53 28 57 80
• Chateau de Neuvic
  The Neuvic Castle was built in 1520 along the banks of the Isle. The architecture shows the transiton from Medieval Time to the Renaissance. Located at Neuvic sur l’Isle.
  Tel: 05 53 80 86 65
• Chateau de Puyferrat
  The Puyferrat Castle was built in the 16th century and features a totally covered walkway that offers a panoramic view onto the neighbouring countryside. A chapel that hosts the family vault was built in 1825. Located near St Astier.
  Tel: 05 53 07 86 26
• Chateau de Puyguilhem
  The Puyguilhem Castle was built during the First Renaissance and is a fine example of a Francoise 1st castle. Located near the village of Villars.
• Chateau de Puymartin
  The Puymartin Castle is be found between Sarlat and Les Eyzies. Occupied by the English in 1358 the castle has managed to preserve its furniture, carpets, paintings and other works for over 5 centuries. Tel: 05 53 59 29 97
• Chateau de Sanxet
  Located 3km west of Monbazillac, they offer a prestige car museum. They also rent rooms for receptions.
  Tel: 05 53 58 37 46
• Chateau de Sauveboeuf
  16th Century castle, classified as a national monument. Displays a Louis the 18th style. Located in Aubas near Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 51 89 46
• Chateau des Bernadiers
  Built on the side of a rocky slope around a high tower with views dominating Nizonne. This castle was no stranger to the 100 year war. The counts d’Aydie increased the castle and built terraces. Located at Champeaux et la Chapelle Pommier.
  Tel: 05 53 60 38 59
• Chateau des Bories
  Constructed on the banks of a river, the Bories Castle is an example of pure classical Perigourdian architecture. The castle dates from the 15th century. Located at Antonne et Trigonant near Perigueux. Tel: 05 53 06 00 01
• Chateau des Milandes
  At Castlenaud-la-Chapelle. A French chateau located in the heart of the Dordogne countryside with an exhibition relating to the life of Josephine Baker. There is also wildlife to discover on the castle grounds. 
  Tel: 05 53 59 31 21 Fax: 05 53 29 17 33
• Chateau et Jardins de Losse
  At Thonac (24). An opportunity to discover this 15th century castle and gardens of Losse.Take a tour around the moat and renaissance hall, which exhibit fine 16th & 17th century tapestries.
  Tel: 05 53 50 80 08 Fax: 05 53 50 80 08
• Chateau l’Eveque
  Located on the D939 north of Perigueux. The Bishops Castle was where Saint Vincent de Paul was ordained priest in the 1600’s.
  Tel: 05 53 04 66 84
• Chateau Saint Michel de Montaigne
  The Montaigne Castle dates back to the 15th century. This is where Saint Michael wrote his famous essays from. Located at Saint Michel de Montaigne.
  Tel: 05 53 58 63 69 Fax: 05 53 58 63 93
• Chateau Varaignes
  It’s facade boasts a mix of Medieval and Renaissance styles from the 13th and 16th century. The village bought the castle in 1965 and won an award for the restoration of the castel. Located in Varaignes.
  Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Cloiture des Recollets
  The House of Wine on Quai Salvette in Bergerac. This 17th century “Cloiture” exhibits the historical link between Bergerac wine and the history of Bergerac. Open June to September.
  Tel: 05 53 63 57 55
• Eco-musee de la Noix
  Walnut farm and museum located in the heart of the Perigord noir region. Documentary film in English shown. There is also a shop selling the local farm produce from walnut cakes to walnut wine.
  Tel: 05 53 59 69 63 Fax: 05 53 28 59 34
• Ecomusee de la Truffe
  Contains plenty of information regarding truffles. Located at Sorges.
  Tel: 05 53 05 90 11
• Institute du Tabac
  A tobacco research institute that has an extensive collection of different types of tobacco products. The institute opens its doors to the public in the summer. Located at Domaine de la Tour on route de Sainte-Alvére in Bergerac.
  Tel: 05 53 63 66 00
• Le Musee Costi
  A collection of works by the Greek sculptor Constantin Papachristopolous. Exhibited in a 12th century crypt in the Saint Jacques presbytery in Bergerac. Ask at the Mayor’s office for more details.
  Tel: 05 53 74 66 66.
• Le Musee du Perigord
  On Cours Tourny, Perigueux. An interesting presentation of fine arts and french archeology. There is also a zoological section. 
  Tel: 05 53 06 40 70 Fax: 05 53 06 40 71
• Le Musee du Thot
  The Thot Museum comprises an animal park and an exhibition centre. In the park one can see species of animal that closely resemble those that historically could be found there. Located at Thonac.
  Tel: 05 53 50 70 44
• Musee Atelier du Trompe-L’Oeil et du Decor Paint
  The Trompe-L’Oeil and Decorative Paint Museum is unique in Europe. It is possible to see demonstrations of work in progress. Located at 5 rue Emile Combes in Perigueux.
  Tel: 05 53 09 84 40
• Musee d’Histoire Locale
  The local history museum in Villefranche de Lonchat contains portraits, costumes and more. Located at Villefranche de Lonchat near Saint Michel de Montaigne. 
  Tel: 05 53 81 21 39
• Musee de Cognac
  A museum dedicated to manufacturing Cognac. The process is clearly explained and the tools clearly displayed. Located in St Aulaye.
  Tel: 05 53 90 81 33
• Musee de l’Or
  Located in the basement of the Castle of Jumilhac le Grand. The museum takes one back to Gaul times when gold was mined in the region.
  Tel: 05 53 52 55 43
• Musee de la Carte Postale Ancienne du Perigord
  The Historical Postcards Museum of Perigord offers more than 33 000 exhibits. Founded by Henry Brives. Located at Saint Pardoux la Riviere.
  Tel: 05 53 60 76 10
• Musee de la Ferblanterie
  Offers more than 1000 white & galvanised iron exhibits dating from the 18th century till today. At La Tour Blanche near Riberac.
  Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee de la Medicine
  This medical museum in Hautefort, is housed in what was known as a poorhouse that housed local destitutes. The building was finished in 1740 and now hosts the tourist office, a weavers workshop and the medicam museum. See website for more details. 
  Tel: 05 53 50 40 27
• Musee de la Paleontologie et de la Vie Sauvage
  Includes 3000 articles of paleonthology covering 700 million years. The Musee de la Vie Sauvage boasts more than 1000 stuffed exhibits. Open June to September. Located at 9 rue de la Republic in La Bugue sur Vezere. 
  Tel: 05 53 08 28 10
• Musee de la Pierre Taillee
  This sculptured stone museum displays stomes from the Paleothique and Neolithique periods. 
  Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Musee de la Prehistoire.
  Offres visitors an original projection room amongst the rocks. Offer various examples of sculptured rocks and Magdalenian art. Located at Teyjat. 
  Tel: 05 53 56 30 29
   
• Musee des Arts et Traditions Populaires
  The Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions in Mussidan assembled this collection of artifacts from yesteryear including furniture and other objects. 
  Tel: 05 53 81 23 55
• Musee des Records 
  situated in the “salle polyvalent”, it offers a light hearted history of the songs that featured for the town’s annual August festival. Located at La Tour Blanche near Riberac. 
  Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee des Rois d’Araucanie
  The Museum of the King of Araucanie celebrates Antoine de Tounens who left for Patagonia in 1860 where he declared himself king. He was expelled by the Chilean police in 1860. Medals and official documentation are on show. Located in Chourgnac near Sorge 
  Tel: 05 53 51 12 76
• Musee du Foie Gras
  Discover how geese and ducks are raised, how “Foie Gras” is processed and learn about how to prepare it. At place de Marechal Foch, Thiviers, Dordogne (24).
  Tel: 05 53 55 12 50
• Musee du Suaire
  The relic of St Suaire is to be found in the Cadouin Abbey. Built in 1115, the abbey has recently been declared a world heritage site. Located in Cadouin.
  Tel: 05 53 63 36 28
• Musee du Tabac
  A tobacco museum located at Place du Feu in Bergerac. Displays a large selection of tobacco paraphernalia. Open in season. 
  Tel: 05 53 63 04 13
• Musee du Ver a Soie
  An interesting and educational silkworm museum. Located at Saint Just near Riberac. 
  Tel: 05 53 90 73 60
• Musee du Vin de la Tonnellerie et de la Batellerie
  A museum dedicated to the making of wine barrels and related objects. Located at 5 rue des Conferences in Bergerac.
  Tel: 05 53 57 80 92
• Musee Eugene le Roy
  To be found in the old Saint Jean l’Evangeliste Hospital. It is dedicated to the writings of Eugene Le Roy who died in the city in 1907. Displays his writings, photos, clothing and other souvenirs. Located in Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 51 82 60
• Musee Fossiles
  The Fossil Museum features a 5.5m high and 11m long metalique sculpture of a Tyrannosaurus-Rex amongst other exhibits. Located in Peyzac le Moustier near Montignac.
  Tel: 05 53 50 81 02
• Musee Gallo Romain Vesunna
  At Rue 26eme RI, Perigueux. Conceived by Jean Nouvel, this museum presents one of the most significant archeological remains in Aquitaine. 
  Tel: 05 53 53 00 92
• Musee Militaire du Perigord
  The Perigord Military Museum is at 32 Rue des Farges, Perigueux. Presents over 13000 pieces on French military history. 
  Tel: 05 53 53 47 36
• Musee Napoleon
  An opportunity to visit the Museum of Napoleon and to view his family history. Situated within the grounds of Chateau de la Pommerie in the heart of Cendrieux, Dordogne (24). 
  Tel: 05 53 03 24 03 Fax: 05 53 03 22 39
• Musee National de Prehistoire
  Offers an extremelly comprehensive and chronologically ordered exhibition covering the Paleolithic period. Located at Les Eyzies.
  Tel: 05 53 06 45 45 Fax: 05 53 06 45 55

History

Two hundred and fifty years BC it was inhabited by a celtic tribe the Bellovaques, who gave the city its name. The 11th century AD made it a fortified city because of its strategic position. In its most ancient part you find the castrum (fortified village) with its old keep (the “Tour de l’Auditeur”, 11th century), the Hôtel Bontemps (12th century, with its renaissance front), the ramparts, which used to encircle the city with a fortified gate and a tower later to be raised into a belfry (15th century). It towers above the Place d’Armes, nowadays used as a market-place every Saturday morning, with its five hundred years old 23 pillars and the pillori-irons to which the prisoners used to be chained.

In the hollow of the medieval ditch you can see the entrance to the troglodytic caves, once inhabited (from the 13th to the 18th centuries; guided visits all the year round, upon prior reservation). Strolling along the streets and alleys with their poetical names the “rue du Bout du Monde” (end of the world), the “Rue de l’Oiseau qui Chante (the singing bird), you will meet some more architectural treasures, the castle, the former Couvent des Frères Prêcheurs (monastery of the preaching priest)

About

In the centre of the town you can visit some troglodyte dwellings that date from around the 13th century. In the town you can also see the medieval belfry and walls, a 14th century castle, and the city hall. Belves is famous as being the ‘town of seven bell towers’. You will enjoy a pleasant afternoon wandering the streets and alleys of Belves – note that it is listed as ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’.

The main sights

The old town, called Le Castrum, originates from the 11/12th century and was originally surrounded by ramparts. These were 15 metres high under the hospital! Some of the ramparts are still visible – wander down the rue du Petit Sol and the rue de l’oiseau qui chante (street of the bird that sings!).

The Belfry was built in the 11th century and was originally a defensive tower overhanging a deep moat in which people lived in caves. At the bottom of the moat the troglodytes grew their vegetables. The visit to the “Habitations troglodytiques” is very interesting.

The entrance to the troglodyte dwelling is by the fortified gate in the corner of the square. In the 11th century this had a drawbridge and was the only entrance to the Castrum.

Also from the 11th century is the ‘Tourd de l’Auditeur’. The entrance is high up as guards used to enter by ladder and then pull this up to prevent intruders.

The other main building of the middle ages is ‘La Tour du Guet’, the watch tower which is out of town on the corner of the rue du Bout du Monde (End of the World Street ) and the Pelevade street (named after a menhir which once stood here). The watch tower overlooks the valley and so could warn when the enemy approached.

Moving into the 13th century there is the monastery of the ‘Freres Precheurs’, now the townhall of Belves, and the church of Moncuq whose choir and chapels are 13th century though much of the rest is 15th century.

The chateau on the edge of town was started in the 14th century and altered during the Renaissance and afterwards.

In the 15th and 16th century the covered market was built. Note the pilori chain on one of the pillars. This was put round the neck of wrong-doers and they were held there for two or three days.

The Maison des Consuls which houses the tourist office is also 15th century and was for meetings of the consellors. The ground floor was a guard-room.

One of the highlights of Belves is its position on a rock outcrop, overhanging the valley of the river Nauze, and the views across open countryside from the town. Don’t ignore the surrounding countryside wnen you visit Belves – there is a great deal to explore in the surrounding small villages.

OFFICE DE TOURISME DU PAYS DE BELVES
1, Rue des Filhols
24170 BELVES
TEL/FAX : 33-553-29-10-20
belves@perigord.com

http://www.perigord.com/belves

The Beune Valley has been occupied for a very long time. Around Commarque, prehistoric man has left numerous traces of his passage. Not far from the site at Commarque, Paleolithic man left two female statuettes known as the Venus of Sireuil and the Venus of Laussel.
On the other side of the valley, in the shelter at Cap Blanc, one can admire a frieze of prehistoric sculptures. Under Commarque Castle there is a cave where Magdalenian man carved animals on the wall, notably a very beautiful life-sized horse (not open to the public).

 
The Uncertain Origins of Commarque

The most reasonable hypothesis would be to attribute the founding of a keep at Commarque to one of the two abbots of the same name who succeeded the abbey see of Sarlat during the last third of the XIIth century: Garin (1169-1181) or Randolph de Commarque (1195-1201). The building of a tower allowed them to contain the ambitions of their vassals the Beynacs, with whom they had a relationship of conflict. It was a member of their family who obtained its guard. The first Lord of Commarque, thus, was a “milites castri” or knight, who followed orders from the Abbey of Sarlat. In the XIIth century, a concentration of population existed there, made up of a keep with living quarters, a chapel and house towers: it was the castrum of Commarque.
 

The Beynacs, Lords of Commarque

There is mention of Commarque in archive documents from 1255 onwards. Maynard de Beynac became the lord of the château. The house towers were held by the lineages of lesser nobles, the names of several of which are known: the Commarque, the Cendrieux, the Gondrix, the La Chapelle… Each house tower had an enclosure, its own access, and ditches. The lord and knights fought over the rights of justice, land and other property.
 

The Rise of the Beynacs

During the course of the XIVth century, two major lineages had the first regrouping of lands by successive acquisitions. The Beynacs succeeded in constituting a veritable castellany around Commarque when they retook the rights of Marquay and of Sireuil from the Cendrieux and imposed their suzerainty on the den of Laussel. The Commarques took back the lands and rights from the descendants of the other knights, either by buying them or through alliances. From the middle of the XIVth century, the entire lower courtyard had become the noble house of the Commarques: they now disposed of a defensive parameter largely exceeding that of the Château of Beynac.
 

The Patrimony of the Beynacs Combined

In 1379 Pons de Beynac, Lord of Commarque, married Philippa, 12 years of age, heiress of the lords of Beynac. By this alliance, the lords of Commarque acquired the castellany of Beynac and its dependencies.
 

The Hundred Years’ War

During the Hundred Years’ War, the Beynacs stayed faithful defenders of the throne of France. Pons de Beynac enjoyed several political favors: he was among the clients of Beaufort-Turenne, of the Avignon papacy and of the Anjou party. The extension of Commarque Castle between 1370 and 1380 has been attributed to him. He undertook heightening the keep and the curtain wall, and had the crown of machicolations built which was inspired by the Palace of the Popes in Avignons.
 

The Decline of the Beynacs and the Commarques

Nevertheless, the Beynacs came out of the Hundred Years’ War badly. First of all, in 1406, the English, driven by Archambaud d’Abzac, seized hold of Commarque. The whole family was brought together and made prisoner. A tax, ordered by the king, was levied on the inhabitants of Perigord and Quercy to pay the ransom. The castellany of Commarque began to break up. In 1395, Pons lost the suzerainty over Laussel . He was unable to retain Domme. And in 1441, the Beynacs went under the influence of the Count of Perigord, a visible sign of their political weakening. During the 1500s, it seems that the resident families had already deserted the castrum of Commarque.
 

The Wars of Religion

During the Wars of Religion, the Beynacs were loyal to the cause of the Reform. From Commarque, which was his base of operation, Geoffroy, Baron of Beynac and Lord of Commarque, launched several attacks on Catholic hideouts in the area and even furtively took hold of Sarlat. In 1569, Commarque Castle was taken for the first time by the Catholics led by the seneschal and by the Governor of Perigord. It is without doubt following this siege that the vaulted room collapsed. As the new master of Commarque, Geoffroy installed a garrison there which, by way of reprisal, would be hanged the same year.
 

The Abandon and Renaissance of Commarque

Guy de Beynac, the last castellan living in Commarque Castle, died there in 1656. The site was definitively abandoned in XVIIIth century. A century later the castle was in ruins. In 1968, Hubert de Commarque bought his ancestors’ ruins. He undertook the consolidation of the most damaged parts. Since 1994 there have been successive phases of consolidation and restoration. Hubert of Commarque has given Kleber Rossillon, the creator of the Museum of Medieval Warfare in Castelnaud Castle and the Gardens of Marqueyssac, the task of opening the Commarque site to the public. A program of archeological research has been in place for several years.

Open hours

April and all saints holidays: from 10:00 am- 6:00 pm
May, June, September:
from 10:00 am – 7:00 pm
July and August: from 10:00 am – 8:00 pm
Last admissions 1 hour before closing.

Free parking
Parking located 600 m from the site.
A specially fitted forest path leads to the entrance of the site.

2008 Price

Individual price
Adults: 6 €
Children (10 -17 yrs): 3 €
Children (-10 yrs): free

Group price
(for 20 or more persons)
Adults: 5 €
Children: 2,50 €

More than 160,000 visitors come here each year, to spend a few hours or a whole day. The originality and unique character of the place have made it the number one touristic site in the Dordogne.

Here is a place that will delight both younger and older visitors and will give them the opportunity to find out what life was like in a Périgord village some 100 years ago, to preserve handycraft traditions thought to be lost, to sample the local specialities, and to bridge the gap between the generations.

One of the most interesting features of the village is the number of craftsmen who work here, bringing back to life before your eyes many trades which have become very rare. You will be amazed by their congeniality and friendliness.

• The baker, he comes to his stone oven specially to bake bread before your eyes.
• The wood-turner, do you know how the old-fashioned tops were made?
• Basket-weaving and Wheat-braiding, see how the slim stalks are intertwined between the weaver’s nimble fingers, to become a basket.
• The Farrier no one matches his skill for manufacturing old fashioned nails and luck-bringing horseshoes.
• The Barrel-hoop Maker, how to select the best branches to make hoops that will encircle the barrels containing our finest wines…
• The Spinner, discover how, from the coarse wool from our sheep, one can spin and work the immaculate strands, as our grandmothers used to do.
• The Potter, see her hands gradually give shape to jugs, vases, jars which she then decorates with talent.

And many more…

Opening dates and times
The village is open from 18 February to 11 November
Opening times: May to September from 10am to 7pm – October to May: from 10am to 5pm

Contact
24260 Le Bugue sur Vézère
Tel. 05 53 08 41 99 / Fax 05 53 08 42 01
www.lebournat.fr